Monday 30 January 2017

1988 Querciagrande, Podere Capaccia

A cold Sunday, in the afternoon and a few unread wine newspapers (what a give away...) lying around - why not open a bottle of wine?

1988 Querciagrande, Podere Capaccia
This 100% Sangiovese Vino da Tavola offers up a deep, mature, tight nose with notes of dried up cherry jam, damp earth, ripe rosemary and dark chocolate. Very, very good. Mature, but not overly so. Some bonfire aromas after a while. Really good.
The taste is mature and firm with notes of ripe, dried cherries, liquorice, veal stock and fried rosemary. A long, warm, fine finish. Drinking well all evening long. I have more, those whould be drunk in 5 years time. Very, very good on this Sunday.
91p   (tasted 2017/01)



Saturday 28 January 2017

Red Room Hedonism - Mosel, Barolo & Bordeaux



The Red Room at Magnusson Fine Wine is a perfect place for a few great bottles with some close friends. Great food is provided from a nearby restaurant. The recipe for a marvellous evening.

1999 Scharzhofberg Riesling Spätlese, Egon Müller
A fine Riesling with some Italian delicatessen is always a great start. It has a pure, fresh nose with a touch of maturity and fine notes of yellow plums, lemon tinged minerals, rubber and a cool smokiness. Very, very fine and lively.
The taste is refined and tight with notes of candied lemons, warm grass and sweet minerals. A very long, balanced and beautiful finish. Really, really good. Almost fully mature.
94p   (tasted 2017/01)


1970 Barolo Zunino, Vietti
The first duo consisted of two wines from Vietti, who we visited in December last year. The nose is deep and mature with lovely notes of moist undergrowth, muscovado sugar, dried cherries and lots of trumpet mushrooms. A lovely dried up sweetness. Round and fine.
The taste is mature, round and dry with notes of dried cherries, rose petals, leather and a hint of dog fur. Long, warm and dry. A tad too old on its own but with the food it rose and was a perfect match.
91p   (tasted 2017/01)



2001 Barolo Villero Riserva, Vietti
The Villero is a gorgeous creature. The nose is just lovely with its focus, concentration and purity, with notes of violets, forest floor, ripe black cherries and flowers. Dense yet high and refined. Very, very deep. Still very young.
The taste is brilliant with lots and lots of fresh red fruits, a high and might tannin structure and a awesome balance. But it is still very young, will need another 6+ years. And then it will even closer to perfection.
97p   (tasted 2017/01)

1996 Château Latour
This small get together was designed for drinking a bottle of Latour, to highlight my 1000th post.
98p   (tasted 2017/01)

1996 Château Citran
Compare and contrast. This is what makes wine tasting and drinking so interesting. With todays prices, you can buy 15 bottles of 96 Citran instead of one bottle of 96 Latour. Compare and contrast. This is a really fine, maturing Bordeaux with a nose filled of inky black currants fruit and additional notes of cocoa, tobacco and autumn leaves. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is medium bodied and tight with notes of ripe black currants, moist tobacco, graphite amd forest floor. A very fine dryness in the finish. Drinking great on this night. But would I rather have 15 bottles of this instead of one bottle of the Latour? Ah, well...
91p   (tasted 2017/01)



Previous Red Room Hedonism - Montrose & Canon


Friday 27 January 2017

Some Oldies Between 1934 - 1998

A tasting at Mikke´s always delivers some oldies, and the more the merrier if you ask me. This get together waas held between Christmas and New Years Eve last year.

All white wines tasted double blind, but for the reds (except for the four last ones) we knew what they were, since we helped to open the bottles, with mixed success...

1950 Graves Superiures Sec, Daniel Sanders
A big, mature nose with notes of dried apricots, eraser, damp earth and resin. Good. Dried up yellow fruit.
The taste is dry and mature with notes of dried flowers, apricots and some rubbery notes. A good length. Still hanging in there, we guessed it to be younger.
85p   (tasted 2016/12)



1958 Graves Sec, Domaine de Courbon
A touch foursquare nose with notes of dried yellow flowers, metal and rottening vegetables, but in a nice kind of way...
The taste is dry and compact with notes of dry almonds, dried flowers and dusty earth. Medium long and dry. A tad too old.
76p   (tasted 2016/12)

1980 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes, Pierre Matrot
A round, generous, mature nose with notes of toasted bread, melon, grilled lemons and cap gun smoke. Very good. A fine dried up sweetness.
The taste is medium mature and finely dry with notes of dried pine apple, banana peel and smoke. Long, warm and big hearted. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)



1971 Meursault Genevriéres, ? ...rnaud
The label doesn´t give up the producers name, unless the "rnaud" at the end. Anyone who knows who the producer is? Anyway, the nose is seedy and green with notes of dry lemons, model clay and earth.
The taste is mature, dry and ungenerous with a taste of lemons meets metal. Rather long but very dry. Not good.
73p   (tasted 2016/12)

1997 Chablis Valmur, Verget
A fine, elegant nose with notes of roasted nuts, dry fudge, crushed rocks and smoke. A very high, pure nose. This is good!
The taste is refined and tight with notes of lemons, smoke, summer flowers and wet stones. Long and lingering. A very fine balance. Pure.
93p   (tasted 2016/12)


1997 Meursault Les Poruzots Premier Jus, Verget
A big, somewhat oxidized nose with notes of ripe yellow plums, white raisins and damp earth.
The taste is big and mature with warm, yellow fruit, stale nuts and raisins. The finish is good though and the dryness in the end is fine. But this has probably been stored badly.
78p   (tasted 2016/12)

1995 Clos Blanc de Vougeot 1er Cru (Monopole), L´Héritier-Guyot
The wine that is no more. L´Hérétier-Guyot has lost the contract on this plot. The nose is cool and seedy with notes of spicy lemons, model clay and smoke. Deep and fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of lemon cream, sweet minerals and dusty earth. Very good but a tad restrained. I would give this some more time.
90p   (tasted 2016/12)


Time for some, or a lot, of red wines!
1964 Bourgogne, Jouhey
A big, blowsy nose with lots of overripe root vegetables, unfresh stables and some wet dog fur. Interesting...
The taste is better with some dried strawberries, undergrowth and cranberries. A medium long finish with a decent acidity.
72p   (tasted 2016/12)



1966 Volnay Caillerets, M. G. Lafite
A deep, finely mature nose with notes of mushrooms, Christmas spice and dried raspberries. Very good. Lots of forest floor aromas after a while.
The taste is round, dry and mature with notes of dried strawberries, undergrowth and rosehips. Long, warm and very good. Has matured in a fine fashion.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)

1978 Château Troplong-Mondot
A deep, meaty nose with notes of dark plums, chocolate biscuits, graphite and leather. A fine depth and warmth. Very, very good.
The taste is mature and racy with notes of blueberries, tobacco, leather and dry chocolate. Very long and fine. Velvety tannins. Perfectly mature.
91p   (tasted 2016/12)

1959 Château des Hautes Graves
A mature, dry nose with notes of dried blueberries, old tobacco and autumn leaves. Some iodine. Very good. A fine driep up sweetness.
The taste is dry, seedy and tight with notes of dusty blueberries, tobacco and leather. A long finish with a fine warmth. Guess this would have been really fine 15 years ago.
86p   (tasted 2016/12)



1964 Château Chauvin
Another charmer from The Greatest Vintage Ever. The nose is warm and compact with notes of ripe red and black currants, cold coffee, autumn leaves and leather. Velvety and fine.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of dried cherries, plums, tobacco and warm gravel. Long and fine. A very fine maturity. Lovely.
90p   (tasted 2016/12)

1966 Château Arnauton
This for me unknown Fronsac has a deep, mature, sweet nose with notes of dried black currants, tobacco, undergrowth and a touch of VA. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of red and black currants, dry tobacco, cold coffee and old leather. Medium long finish. Drinking good on this night.
87p   (tasted 2016/12)



1964 Château Haut-Bailly
This is a stunner! A beautiful, deep, ethereal nose with notes of fine tobacco, menthol spiked black currants, warm tiles and autumn leaves. Really fine. A lovely sweet fruit. Deep and refined.
The taste is mature yet very energetic and fine with notes of ripe red and black currants, fine tobacco, damp earth and lots of minerals. The finish is long and still shows some polished tannins. This is in a really fine place now. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2016/12)

These last four reds was poured double blind to us.
1998 Cornas V.V., Tardieu-Laurent
A young, upfront, juciy nose with notes of raw rubber, seared meat and ripe flowers. Very, very good. Some chocolate notes as well.
The taste is racy and fine with white peppered meat, bay leaves, fir and forest floor. A long, distinct finish. This is still rather perky, could be cellared for many years.
91p   (tasted 2016/12)



1998 Côte-Rôtie, Jamet
This beauty has a deep, meaty nose with notes of blackberries, raw rubber, undergrowth and white pepper. Rich, deep and gorgeous.
The taste is inky and deep with silky black fruit and notes of bay leaves, smoke, rubber and dark chocolate. The finish goes of for over a minute. Really fine.
94p   (tasted 2016/12)

1998 Hermitage La Sizeranne, M. Chapoutier
Yet another rather uninspiring effort from Chapoutier, these wines never does it for me. The nose is varm, mildy meaty with notes of old rubber, hyacinth and a mix of raspberries and blueberries. Good.
The taste is medium bodied and warm with notes of ripe blueberries, rubber, undergrowth and iron. A good wine, but again, uninspiring.
87p   (tasted 2016/12)



1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau, Vieux Tèlégraphe
A deep, seedy, warm nose with notes of black olives, resin, dark raspberries and fried herbs. Deep and fine.
The taste is big and steady with notes of ripe raspberries, fir, herbs and meat stock. A very long, warm and rich finish. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2016/12)

1934 Dow´s Vintage Port
To finish the evening of, a nice mature Port. This one has a high, refined nose with notes of walnuts, detergent, dry milk chocolate fudge and fried nuts. Very, very fine. A lovely dried up sweetness.
The taste is concentrated and velvety with notes of fudge, sugared coffee, figs and mulled wine. Very long with a great warmth. Really fine.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)



Wednesday 25 January 2017

My 1000th Post - A Bottle Of Château Latour Is Needed!


Any excuse to crack open a bottle of Château Latour is a good one. When I reached my 100th post I opened a 1999 Latour and when I hit 500 posts a bottle of 1931 Latour was opened.

This will be post number 1000 and lets highlight that illustrious moment with another bottle of Latour!

1996 Château Latour
The nose is bottomless deep and hauntingly beautiful with lots and lots of ripe black currants and additional notes of graphite, cigarr smoke, warm rocks and a lovely Ermenegildo Zegna perfumed aroma. Still on the young side of things but oh so stunning.
The taste is very pure, energetic and seamless, with notes of lead pencil shavings, ripe black currants, leather and hot earth. A simply awesome structure, this is built for the ages. A very, very long finish with black, polished tannins. Will hit perfection in 6-10 years. A really great bottle of wine.
98p   (tasted 2017/01)


Friday 20 January 2017

Five Bottles Of Le Clos & One Bougros


Our last monthly tasting group get together was devoted to - through Jacques - to Chablis. Six decanters were placed on the table and the guessing game began.
All tasted double blind.

2014 Chablis Le Clos, Domaine Pinson
A young, fresh, apply nose with additional notes of grey pears, sun warm rocks and summer flowers. Pure and fine.
The taste is young and tight with notes of ripening yellow apples, lemon peel and gravel. Young and fresh. Give it 3+ years.
88p   (tasted 2017/01)



2012 Chablis Le Clos, Jean-Marc Brocard
A fine, deep nose with notes of grilled lemons, matchbox and crushed rocks.S till young. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fresh with a fine, high acidity and notes of candied lemons, wet asphalt and some grassy notes. Long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2017/01)

2011 Chablis Le Clos, Domaine Laroche
A young, seedy nose with notes of dry lemons, grass, gravel and star fruit. A bit laid back. Very good.
The taste is stony and tight with notes of hard lemon candy, earth and dry grass. A fine acidity. Medium long.Very good.
88p   (tasted 2017/01)



2011 Chablis Le Clos, Joseph Drouhin
A young, deep, tight nose with notes of sour/sweet lemons, cap gun smoke and summer flowers. Very pleasant. A fine depth. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and fine with notes of ripe lemons, gravel and dry fudge. Very long and fine with some blood orange notes. Really good.
91p   (tasted 2017/01)

2010 Chablis Bougros, William Fèvre
A really fine, deep nose with notes of ripening melon, model clay, seashells and warm grass. Complex and fine. Very deep.
The taste is steely and refined with notes of ripe lemons, dried flowers, clay and smoke. Very long and finely structured. This is fine.
93p   (tasted 2017/01)



2009 Chablis Le Clos, Joseph Drouhin
A large, warm, slightly unfocused nose with notes of lemon jam, hot earth and damp wool. Deep but a tad too warm.
The taste is warm and seedy with notes of grilled, almost burned lemons, warm gravel and decaying flowers. Marked by a hot year. A nice enough drink, but nothing to cellar.
84p   (tasted 2017/01)




Wednesday 18 January 2017

Dolceacqua - Here We Come!

The tower in Dolceacqua
It is no surprise that I love the Rossese di Dolceaqua wines. Last time we stayed in Liguria over the summer - three long years ago! - I wrote three reports of the wines I tasted:

The Rossese Report - Part I
The Rossese Report - Part II
The Rossese Report - Part III

Now its time to return! We have just booked an apartment just a few miles from Dolceacqua. And to get the real Liguria feeling going, why not open a bottle of Rossese!

2013 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Poggio Pini, Tenuta Anfosso
A deep, warm, spicy nose with notes of dark strawberries, rosé pepper, hot gravel and rosehips. A tad warm, but with good concentration and focus none the less. Very, very good.
The taste is big, outgoing and warm with notes of red beets, dried strawberries, gravel and spices. A long, warm finish with some fine, light tannins. For drinking now and the coming 5+ years.
89p   (tasted 2017/01)



Saturday 14 January 2017

1985 & 1990 Château La Tour Martillac


What could go better with a juicy fillet of beef, fried potatoes and a home made bearnaise sauce, than two bottles of mature Bordeaux? Nothing!

One of the fun parts before opening a bottle is rummage through all the wine literature to see what the esteemed wine critics have written.

Here is one example - "..continues to represent a straightforward, mediocre wine that usually have some correct cherry fruit. Even in opulent vintages like 1982 and 1989, it has a compact, simple, undistinguished character. I know of no recent red wine vintage that did not require consumption within the first 7-8 years of their life"
Guess who? Ours truly know-it-all lawyer from Monkton... That should mean that these bottles would be best poured down the drain by now.
Ah, well...


Another writter, Stephen Brooks in his book The Complete Bordeaux book, describes La Tour Martillac as "never heavy-handed, nearly always beguiling in its fruit, and velvety in texture".
A different view.

But your own palate is always the best judge. Lets open these bottles!

1985 Château La Tour Martillac
This opens with whiff of red peppers and dusty gravel, and with air nice notes of dry tobacco, dried black currants and dark candle grease flows up from the glass. A soft, fine maturity. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied and dry with notes of red and black currants, dry autumn leaves, chewing tobacco and gravel. Fully mature but not overly so. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2107/01)


1990 Château La Tour Martillac
The 1990 is another creature. Michel Rolland apparently took over as a consultant in 1989. It has a open, deep nose with notes of ripe black currants (with a whiff of some unripe berries chucked in), warm tiles, bonfire and tobacco. A fine sweetness to the fruit. Mature, but just so. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and tight with a fine black currant fruit and notes of tobacco, leather, tiles and some stable notes. Long and fine, with that velvety texture. Could still be kept for 3+ years.
91p   (tasted 2017/01)

Other bottles tasted:
1999 Château La Tour Martillac

La Tour Martillac is more known for its white wine and I have tasted two older versions:
1982 Château La Tour Martillac
1939 Château La Tour Martillac


Wednesday 11 January 2017

Drinking Tonight - 1995 Brunello Di Montalcino Prime Donne, Donatelli Cinelli Colombini

After a few days work after two weeks vacation over Christmas and New Year, and recovering from a cold,  I am exhausted and in need of a bottle of wine, and some Italian delicatessen to go along.

1995 Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne, Donatelli Cinelli Colombini
A dense, somewhat mature nose with notes of rich black cherries, rosemary, Tuscan gravel and a whiff of dark chocolate. A fine maturity. A very fine sweetness. Round and rewarding, Really good. Some smoky scents after a while, and a dark perfumed aroma.
The taste is velvety, warm and almost mature with  fine dryness and firmness, alongside sweet black cherries, violets, tobacco and chocolate covered raspberries. Soft, juicy tannins. Long and fine. Drinking perfectly tonight.
91p   (tasted 2017/01)


Other Donatelli Cinelli Colombini Brunello´s tasted:
1998 Prime Donne
1999 Riserva
2001 Prime Donne


Saturday 7 January 2017

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Part Four




The fourth and final chapter of The Barolo Boys last tour to Piedmont.

Disclaimer - the importer of Marengo and Pira to Sweden (Origo Wines) are friends of mine and co founders of the illustrious Barolo Boys. I, however, have no financial interests in these wines, I just call them as I see them.


M. Marengo
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba
A warm, spicy nose with a bit more depth and vigour than you average Dolcetto, more dark cherries, bay leaves and smoke.
The taste is juicy and fresh with a mix of wild strawberries and red currants and a fine dryness at the end of the medium long finish. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)

2015 Barbera d´Alba Vigna Pugnane
An open, fruity nose with notes of liquorice, raspberries and some autumn scents. A fine spicy aroma.
The taste is young and tight with a very good acidity and lots of chocolate covered cherries. This is good!
90p   (tasted 2016/12)

2015 Nebbiolo d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore
A earthy, somewhat reductive nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, smoke and rosehips. A fine depth.
The taste is tight and rather stern with notes of hard cherry candy, spices and mushrooms. Almost ascetic, but in a very fine, laid back way.
90p   (tasted 2016/12)


2012 Barolo
The 12 Normale shows of a finely perfumed nose with notes of strawberries, Christmas spices and liquorice. Very, very good.
The taste is young and seedy with notes of ripe red cherries, raspberry liquorice and crushed rocks. Long and fine. This have a nice potential, give it 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)



2012 Barolo Brunate
The Brunate has a deep, dark, spicy nose with notes of ripe cherries, dark almond paste, forest floor and liquorice. Very fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of sweet red cherries, Christmas spices and lots of minerals. Very finely polished tannins. A great wine in the making, give it 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2016/12)

2013 Barolo
The 13 Normale has a warm, focused nose with notes of spicy cherries, some bonfire scents and boatloads of rose petals. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe cherries, asphalt and roses. Seedy, with broader tannins than the 12. Needs some time. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)



2013 Barolo Bricco Viole
The Bricco Viole is a charmer, with a deep, refined nose with nose of ripe strawberries, violets (!), dark flowers and a fine spicy scent. Really fine.
The taste is pure and balanced with notes of ripe red cherries, liquorice, violet pastills and mushrooms. A long, fine finish with polished tannins. Lovely.
94p   (tasted 2016/12)

2013 Barolo Brunate
The Brunate is darker and deeper than the Bricco Viole, with nice notes of black cherries, forest floor and blood and iron. Roses after a while. Very, very fine.
The taste is tight and intense with notes of dark cherries, some balsamic notes, forest floor and iron. Very long, tight and fantastic.
94p   (tasted 2016/12)

The 2013 had been bottled in july but not, of course, released yet. The 2014´s below were tasted from barrel.

2014 Barolo
The 14 Normale has a young, open nose with notes of cool cherries, mushrooms, sun warm rocks and road dust. A very fine warmth.
The taste is young and tight with juicy tannins and notes of freshly pressed cherries with some raspberries mixed in, some smoky notes and liquorice. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2016/12)

2014 Barolo Bricco Viole
This is a beauty with a young, handsome nose with notes of chrushed cherries, liquorice, sweet minerals and, of course, lots of violets. High and fine.
The taste is elegant and fine with notes of ripe red cherries, sun warm rocks, violets and forest floor. A very fine structure, This will turn out great.
93p   (tasted 2016/12)

2014 Barolo Brunate
A deep, spicy nose with notes of cool meat, liquorice, hot cherries and some balsamic notes. Big and very fine. Some animalic notes. Ripe.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of very ripe cherries, dark liquorice and undergrowth. Some rugged tannins in the finish. Very long. Give it time.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2014 Barolo Brunate Riserva
The Riserva version has a higher, deeper and more pure nose with a fine spiciness and lots of cool liquorice. This is really fine.
The taste is seedy and lovingly firm with notes of dark cherries, forest floor, a whiff of tobacco and rosehips. Very, very long and intense. A great wine in the making.
95p   (tasted 2016/12)





Luigi Pira
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba
The Dolcetto is young and vibrant with notes of almond paste, cool strawberries and some violets. Very nice.
The taste dry and fresh with notes of red currants, almonds and herbs. Sappy and fine.
87p   (tasted 2016/12)


2014 Barbera d´Alba
The 14 Barbera sports a tight, dark nose with notes of ripe raspberries, scorched earth and smoke. Rich and good.
The taste is young, tight and warm with notes of juicy raspberries, cherry pips and forest floor. More restrained than the nose leads you to belive. A very fine acidity.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)


2014 Langhe Nebbiolo
This shows a cool, refined nose with notes of ripening wild strawberries, mushrooms and some animal aromas in a distance. This is really good.
The taste is seedy and young with notes of sun warm roses, red cherries and moist mushrooms. Fine, structured tannins. Give it 3+ years. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Marenca
A deep, open nose with notes of spicy strawberries, rosehips and forest floor. Tight and very fine.
The taste is young and sturdy with tons of liquorice and sweet red cherries. A long, intense finish with sweet minerals. This is good!
93p   (tasted 2016/12)


2012 Barolo Vigna Rionda
The Vigna Rionda is a stunner, with a refined, deep nose with notes of wild strawberries, Christmas spices, autumn leaves and asphalt. Complex. Really fine.
The taste is tight and intense with lots of red berries - raspberries, wild strawberries, red cherries. The finish is long, long and long. Sandy tannins. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2016/12)

2013 Barolo Serralunga
A dense, tight nose with notes of a mix of rapsberries and blueberries, some model clay and undergrowth. Very, very good. Deep and fine.
The taste is young and steady with notes of red cherries, rosehips and tar. Very classic and fine. A long finish with cool tannins. Drink in 5+ years. All 2013 Barolo will be bottled in January 2017.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2013 Barolo Marenca
A deep, beautiful nose with notes of cool tobacco, hard cherry candy, forest floor and dried flowers. Very lively and fine.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of ripe red cherries, dark minerals, rosehips and fir wood. Some finely polished tannins in the long, long finish. Impressive.
95p   (tasted 2016/12)

The new bottle line from Pira! :-)

My scribbling notes through Vigna Rionda!

2013 Barolo Margheria
The Margheria is a beauty. It has a deep, high, fantastic nose with notes of ripe black cherries, rose petals, dried strawberries and a hint of coffee powder. Concentrated. Very, very fine.
The taste is pure and refined with notes of strawberries, iron, earth and some dried meat. Tight and aristocratic. Very long. Just lovely. 7+ years.
95p   (tasted 2016/12)

2013 Barolo Vigna Rionda
A very cool, tight and withdrawn nose that requires a lot of swirling to get some aromas out of the glass. But then some forest floor, black cherries and mushrooms rises from the glass. Very deep and promising.
The taste is very tight, intense and structured. There is more potential here than pure enjoyment right now. But you can feel that the parts for something really great are there, just give it 7+ years.
94p   (tasted 2016/12)

Gianpaolo Pira & Marco Marengo