Tuesday, 29 March 2016

Tasting Flaccianello - 1985 - 2010 - 12 Magnum

Some seven years ago I found two magnums of Flaccianello at a wine store somewhere in Europe. That was the beginning of this evening. During the years I have sought out magnums of the good and great vintages of Tuscany.

Flaccianello was born in 1981 and up to 1985 it consisted of up to 15% green grapes along with the Sangiovese. From 1985 it is 100% Sangiovese, rightfully so.
Between 1981 and 2000 the grapes came from a single vineayard, called Flaccianello because it was located in the vicinity of the church that have given the cross on the label (one of the wine worlds most beautiful labels IMHO), but from the 2001 vintage the blend is made out of the best grapes from Fontodi´s estate, that covers 70 ha.
The oak treatmant has increased over the years and now it is 100% new oak, interesting in this anti-oak day and age...

Now it was time to open them all - 12 magnums for 13 wine afficionados - sounds about right! It was actually one magnum each since we started with a magnum Champagne...
We were seated in a private room at Djuret, one of my favourite restaurants in Stockholm, which if you don´t bring 12 magnums of Flaccianello or 20 vintages of Montrose...., has an amazing wine list. The food, service and handling of the bottles was, as usual, top notch - thanks!

This is how it went.

1995 Femme, Duval-Leroy
This was really a slow starter. At first I was a tad disappointed, but when it got some air things started to happen. When it opens up fine aromas of tangerines, dried flowers, smoke and fudge emerges from the glass. Classy. Some steely notes. Very fine.
The taste is tight, stony and barely mature with notes of lemon cream, tangerines, slate and gravel. A high, fine acidity. Long and intense. This is very, very good and will go on for many years to come. A great start.
93p   (tasted 2016/02)

Flight I
1985 Flaccianello
Things didn´t start out as well when we came to the Flaccianello´s though. This bottle has been stored badly somewhere along the line. The nose is murky and hot with notes of cherry jam, (over) ripe plums and wet earth. Hollow.
The taste is warm and compact with notes of old wood, red wine vinegar and mud. Tired. I can see this standing for years in a shop window somewhere in Italy (been there, seen that...).
60p   (tasted 2016/02)

1988 Flaccianello
A big, open, sweet nose with notes of dark cherries, rosemary, autumn leaves and tobacco. A fine maturity. Very good. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is round and mature and drinking beautifully with notes of ripe cherries, liquorice, dried herbs and warm Tuscan gravel. A long, velvety finish that ends with a dry twist. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2016/02)

1990 Flaccianello
From a regular bottle this has been mature for some time, but from a magnum it delivers the goods. The nose is deep and intense with rich notes of black cherries, raspberry liquorice, pipe tobacco, violets and warm gravel. A perfect maturity, and just so. Very, very fine.
The taste is big and chewy with notes of ripe cherries, chocolate wafers, warm tiles and sweet tobacco. The finish is long, multi layered and impressive. In this format, this could be kept for another 5+ years. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2016/02)

1995 Flaccianello
The 95 Flaccianello opens up with a deep, warm nose with notes of spicy cherries, rosemary, autumn leaves and Tuscan gravel. Pure and fine. Some tobacco after a while. Very, very good.
The taste is big and steady with sweet, mature cherry fruit and additional notes of sugared coffee, warm herbs and dry liquorice. A long, dry finish. Drinking perfect tonight.
90p   (tasted 2016/02)

Flight II
1997 Flaccianello
My perennial favourite of Flaccianello is of course stunning from a magnum! But I have to be honest and say that I have had even better ones from regular bottles, the last one three years ago. This bottle has a deep, meaty and powerful nose with notes of sweet/sour black cherries, warm herbs, chocolate, black olives and violets. Very, very fine. Fully mature and giving lots of pleasure.
The taste feels younger than the nose with notes of black cherries, moist earth, chocolate covered cherries, rosemary and tapenade. The finish is very long, sweet and showing some tannins in the end. Drinking great now and the coming 5+ years, at least from this bottle size.
95p   (tasted 2016/02)

1998 Flaccianello
The 98 shows a deep, seedy, fine nose with notes of warm, ripe cherries, dark flowers, black olives and some tobacco. More restrained than the 97. Very, very good. Almost fully mature.
The taste is warm, structured and fine with notes of ripe black cherries, warm tiles, dried flowers and liquorice. A long, taut finish with a fine tobacco note. Very, very good. Could be cellared another 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2016/02)

1999 Flaccianello
My favourite in this flight and the runner up of the whole line up. The nose is just stunning with deep, intense notes of ripe black cherries, dusty earth, violets, leather and a dark salt caramel. Great wine. Some maturity but this has a long way to go.
The taste is tight and concentrated, yet refined with gorgeous notes of black cherries, ripe blueberries, dark chocolate, warm Tuscan gravel and expensive leather. The finish goes on for minutes. Lovely polished tannins that comes through in the end of the finish. Great for drinking now but I would love to drink this every day for the coming 10+ years.
96p   (tasted 2016/02)

2000 Flaccianello
The 00 is no slouch but it has some problems shining in this company. The nose is big and outgoing with notes of warm cherries, liquorice, moist earth and tobacco. Ripe and good.
The taste is broadshouldered and ripe with notes of cherry jam, raspberry liquorice, fried herbs and tobacco. A long, warm finish with fully integrated tannins. Very good. Another magnum, tasted last year was better.
88p   (tasted 2016/02)

Flight III
2001 Flaccianello
A fine, young, seedy nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, violets, fresh rosemary, gravel and veal meat. Very ripe fruit, but in a laid back sort of way. A high, almost ethereal nose. Needs time to open up. There is future greatness here.
The taste is young, tight and intense with notes of red and black cherries, cigarette ashes, violets, Tuscan gravel and veal stock. The finish is long, structured and very promising. Really, really good now but give this baby another 6+ years and it will reach different, and even better heights.
94p   (tasted 2016/02)

2004 Flaccianello
There is something wrong here. Not corked, but very, very weird. The nose is bitter and highly strung with lots of cold gravel, beets and stems.
The taste is seedy and bitter with red, unripe fruit and a high acidity. Something must have happened with this bottle, for a 04 Flaccianello can´t behave like this. Judgement reserved.
?   (tasted 2016/02)

2006 Flaccianello
Aaaaah! Best wine of the evening. The nose is a cornucopia of ripe black cherries, violets, assorted herbs, undergrowth and warm tiles. Very impressive. Shows structure, power and refinement in one sniff, or several, which is what you would like to do with this. Gorgeous!
The taste is young, tight and intense with the ripest red and black cherries imaginable and additional notes of expensive tobacco, rosemary, Tuscan gravel and a hint of asphalt. The finish goes on for minutes. Stunning now and will go on being stunning for 10+ years. Gotta me more of this nectar.
97p   (tasted 2016/03)

2010 Flaccianello
Too bad - corked beyond belief !#¤%"#%!

Other impressions (in Swedish) here & here.

Sunday, 27 March 2016

2010 Côte-Rôtie - Vignobles Levet & Saint Cosme

What to open to along the traditional lamb dish this Easter? Why not two bottles of young, juicy Syrah? Ok then!

2010 Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Maestria, Vignobles Levet
I tasted Levet´s Améthyste almost two years ago, but have not come around to the Maestria until now. Glad I did, for this is great. The nose is young, cool and finely tuned with notes of ripening blueberries, allspice, rubber and bay leaves. A bit low keyed but oooh so fine. Some wood smoke after a while. Impressive. Day two it is even better, with a lovely sweet lingonberry note and a whole petrol station oozing up from the glass.
The taste is young and tight with notes of veal meat, crushed black pepper, lots of minerals and bay leaves. The finish is long, sandy and full of tannins that are sandpapered with the finest grade. Very promising. On day two it is even more harmonious and handsome with everything (except maturity) in place. Note to self, wait 4+ years before opening another bottle.
94p   (tasted 2016/03)

2010 Côte-Rôtie, Saint Cosme
Some 10 years ago we did a tasting of 1999 Côte-Rôtie - all three La-La´s from Guigal, Jamet and Saint Cosme. Tasting them single blind I had La Mouline as number one and a perfect wine. In second place....Saint Cosme. There were others tasters that had the Saint Cosme in first place. Ah well, we fast forward to 2016 and me opening the 2010.
The nose is open for business right out of the bottle with gorgeous peppery aromas and additional notes of ripe blueberries, violet pastilles, meat stock, cigarette smoke and gravel. A very fine depth and sweetness to the fruit. Some freshly sawn spruce lingers in the background, and dried flowers. Just lovely. On day two the fruit is a bit darker and there is notes of tobacco and dusty earth.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of blueberry pie, dried raspberries, fine tobacco, black pepper and diesel. The finish goes on for over a minute and shows a fine concentration. Day two it is tighter still and needs time to open up. Wait 3+ years. Great wine!
95p   (tasted 2016/03)

Saturday, 26 March 2016

Drinking Tonight - 2014 Chardonnay by Farr

Winepunker recommended - I bought, and this is the first bottle that gets opened.
Info here.

2014 Chardonnay by Farr
A young but wonderfully open and generous nose with notes of ripe grey pears, cap gun smoke, lemon grass and birch sap. This is right up my alley when it comes to Chardonnay. A lovely oak aroma in the background. Really fine. Still very young though. Give it 2-3 years.
The taste is pure and racy with notes of lemon cream, summer flowers, sweet minerals and butter cookies. A long, fresh finish with a fine acidity. Drinking great tonight with some assorted cheeses, a mature Gruyère and this wine made a celestial combination.
93p   (tasted 2016/03)

Friday, 25 March 2016

A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2006 Cuvée Gentilhomme, AR Lenoble

When I attended a tasting with wines from Lenoble two years ago, they really stroke a chord with me, so I have bought a bunch of bottles since then.

Their two prestige cuvées - Gentilhomme and Les Aventures - really impressed me at that tasting. Les Aventures is a multi vintage and the last bottle I drank was marvellous.
Time to check up the 06 Gentilhomme.

2006 Cuvée Gentilhomme, AR Lenoble
It opens young and steely and its show it best features on day two, when stunning notes of white currants, lemon fudge, almond paste, butter cup flowers and grapefruit oozes up from the glass. this got class and refinement. Lovely. Still young.
The taste is fine, elegant and steely with notes of lemon zest, white currants, chalk and dried flowers. The finish is long and persistent with a very fine acidity. This is a keeper, glad I have more, but I will wait 4-6 years until the next bottle is opened. Great stuff.
94p   (tasted 2016/03)

Thursday, 24 March 2016

My Easter Egg

Time for the fifth edition of my Easter Egg - some bottles gathered from the cellar to highligt dinner and companion over Easter - here are some of them. Notes to follow.

My Easter Egg Of 2015
My Easter Egg Of 2014
My Easter Egg Of 2013
My Easter Egg Of 2012

Wednesday, 23 March 2016

Some Miscellanous Reds

These were drunk over the last weeks with dinner or on their own.

2010 Brunello di Montalcino, Col d´Orcia
A young, smoky and fresh nose oozes up from the glass with notes of ripe red and black cherries, gravel, rosemary and leather. Very good. A fine sweetness to the fruit. A bit laid back, needs time in the glass. Promising.
The taste is young and tight with lots of cool cherry fruit and additional notes of violets, chocolate biscuits, rosemary and Tuscan gravel. A fine warmth. Should evolve well over the coming 7+ years.
91p   (tasted 2016/03)

2014 Beaujolais-Villages V.V., Jean-Claude Lapalu
A young, seedy, cool nose with notes of unripe lingonberries, masonite, old nuts and a chicken farm in a distance (that doesn´t blow of with air). Rather superficial and ligth.
The taste is dry and anemic with notes of lingonberries, dry earth and plaster. The acidity is good though. Simple and not for me.
72p   (tasted 2016/03)

1993 La Dame de Montrose
This 23 year old second wine from Château Montrose has kept very well, even though that 1993 isn´t regarded as a great, or even a good year. The nose is finely tuned, sandy and mature with notes of chewing tobacco, graphite, old leather and coffee. Medium deep and very good.
The taste is mature and sleek with notes of cool black currants, old leather, cold coffee and some barnyardy notes. A medium long finish. If I were to be picky, the middle taste is rather thin but other than that this is a fine drinking mature Bordeaux. Nice to drink another gem from this, my favourite estate.
88p   (tasted 2016/03)

1989 Clos du Clocher
A soft, mature, fine nose with notes of red plums, smoke, fresh stables and corinthians. Perfectly mature. Round, with a very fine dried up sweetness to the fruit. A lovely nose.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of dried plums, violets, dusty earth and tobacco. A medium long, balanced finish. Very, very good. A contemplating wine.
90p   (tasted 2016/03)

2012 Yalumba The Signature
A big, upfront and fruity nose with notes of crushed black currants, violets, plums, sweet tobacco and a touch of mint. Very good. Calms down in the glass and some bakelite and gravel aromas appear.
The taste is big and broad with notes of sweet blueberries, black currants, raspberry liquorice, tar and wood smoke. A long, persistent finish. Very good and should get better in 2-3 years time.
88p   (tasted 2016/03)

Sunday, 20 March 2016

A Bottle Of Bubbly - 2004 Cuvée Prestige Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs,Michel Gonet

What to open on a Sunday evening, when I am all alone and the only thing in the fridge is a chunk of Foie gras de Canard...?

2004 Cuvée Prestige Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs, Michel Gonet
This is, still!, drinking beautifully. When I tasted it first, 2,5 years ago, I bought some (ok, 10 bottles!). This is my seventh bottle, and it delivers the goods. The nose is deep and wonderful with notes of a cold Tarte Tatin, rosted corn, butter cookies, and apple cider. Just lovely. Has matured a bit but this will hold for 10+ years.
The taste is round, semi mature and finely tuned with notes of lemon cream, almond paste, dried flowers and warm rocks. A lovely length and a persistent finish. Drinking well today and will keep. Great then, great in between and great now.
92p   (tasted 2016/03)

Friday, 18 March 2016

Friday Dinner Baroli - Two Times 2001 Barolo

Not just one, but two bottles!  After a hectic week, nothing could be better than pouring two large glasses of prime Nebbiolo.

2001 Barolo, Leone Giacosa
No, not that Giacosa. Not the other one either. But a Barolo from Leone Giacosa. A first for me, and a nice one at that.
The nose is a bit shy and old fashioned with some (nice) murky aromas, and notes of dried cherries, dried mushrooms, bay leaves and forest floor. Evolves nicely over the evening. Cool red fruit. Very good.
The taste is seedy and dry with notes of dried red cherries, sweet lingonberries, mushrooms and a hint of asphalt. The finish is long and warm. A touch rustic, in a very good way. Drinking well now and a perfect companion to an oven roasted chicken with root vegetables and a garlic sauce.
88p   (tasted 2016/03)

2001 Barolo Riserva Essenze, Terradevino
This is a whole another creature, deeper, more forward, modern and, yes, yummy! The fruit is riper, sweeter and more structured, with notes of sweet morello´s, pipe tobacco, liquorice and smoke. There are some new wood here but its supporting the sweet fruit, not hiding it. Very, very good. Still on the young side of things.
The taste is upfront, generous and lovely - at first. In the finish the tannins come forwards and shut things down. The fruits is more black than red, and there are additional notes of dark chocolate, pipe tobacco and liquorice. The finish is very, very long and intense. This needs another 5+ years in the cellar, and I am glad to have more bottles.
92p   (tasted 2016/03)

Wednesday, 16 March 2016

One Puligny-Montrachet & Two Brunello´s From 1987 On A Monday Evening

Why not?

1987 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts, Etienne Sauzet
This bottle came from the same shipment as the 86 Champ-Canet, and while those 86´s cost an arm and a leg, I got this bottle for 22 Euro! Good call from my part!
The nose offers up intriguing notes of dried up orange marmelade, yellow plums, some mushrooms, hazelnut purée, hay and a touch of iodine. A fine complexity that only maturity can give. Really good.
A full frontal and still rather perky taste with lots of dried apricots and additional notes of salted nuts, blood orange peel, dry caramel and a ever so slight touch of saffron. Very long and dry with a fine acidity. This has hold up well over the years and gives lots of pleasure, the wine just vaporize!
Other Sauzet Les Referts tasted - 19962005 and 2008.
91p   (tasted 2016/03)

1987 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Paradiso di Manfredi
A very fine, mature, delicate nose with notes of dried cherries, rosehips, warm tiles, liquorice and a warm Tuscan gravel road. Very, very good. Evolves all night long. In a very fine shape. Soft but with lots of character. Lovely.
The taste is soft, mature and multi layered with notes of dried cherries, dried rosemary, warm gravel and old chocolate. The finish is long and persistent. Very fine. Drinking perfect in this night.
91p   (tasted 2016/03)

1987 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione
The 29 year old Il Poggione has a deep, mature, meaty nose with notes of ripe black cherries, fire smoke, sweet tobacco and moist earth. A bit farmyardy. Very good.
The taste is big, warm and a bit sturdy with notes of dried black cherries, sugared coffee, dusty earth and dried herbs. Long, warm and a bit loose around the edges. Fully mature, and maybe a tad so.
Other Il Poggione tasted - 19901994 & 200620012004 & 2007.
86p   (tasted 2016/03)

Sunday, 13 March 2016

Zinfandel With Christina Turley

"Life is hell without Zinfandel", an American saying goes. I´m not surely I agree whole hearted but I like to drink the odd bottle of Zinfandel from time to time, and when I got an invitation from Divine to meet Christina Turley and taste the wines from Turley, I jumped at the chance.

Christina, who is daughter of Larry Turely, who founded the estate in 1993, presented the wines and the philosphy of the estate with knowledge, humour and lots of charm.

2014 White Zinfandel
This is a relatively new wine from the estate, the first vintage was 2011. The 2014 has a cool, light and fresh nose with notes of ripening raspberries, liquorice and crushed rocks. Good.
The taste is dry and fresh with notes of red currants, liquorice and minerals. Very nice in a light, upfront way.
86p   (tasted 2016/02)

2013 Juvenile Zinfandel
The youngster in the line up - grapes from young vines - shows a dry, seedy nose with notes of diesel, plums and chewing tobacco. Some wood smoke. Good.
The taste is big and somewhat fiery with notes of dark plums, tobacco and liquorice. A medium long, dense finish. A touch burly, should get better in 1-2 years.
85p   (tasted 2016/02)

2013 Old Vines Zinfandel
The Old Vine wine is much better than the young version. The nose is deep and meaty with notes of black plums, dark chocolate, sweet flowers and figs. Very good.
The taste is tight and full bodied with notes of plum marmelade, chocolate and warm rocks. Long and fairly intense. Really nice.
90p   (tasted 2016/02)

2012 Kirschenmann Zinfandel
This sports a deep, concentrated nose with notes of blackberries, diesel, sweet liquorice and a camp fire. Very, very good. Ripe but holding things together.
The taste is big and brawny with a firm backbone. Great notes of ripe plums, blueberries, dark chocolate and figs. The finish is long and obliging. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2016/02)

2012 Vineyard 101 Zinfandel
This vineyard was planted around 1920 and the grapes delivers a wine with a deep, ripe nose with notes of blackberries, raspberry liquorice, dark perfume and sweet minerals. Intriguing and fine.
The taste is steady and dark with notes of blueberry pie, (over)ripe raspberries, tobacco and crushed rocks. At the end of the long finish there are som hefty tannins present. Should work wonders with a juicy steak.
91p   (tasted 2016/02)

2012 Zampatti Vineyard Zinfandel
The Zampatti shows a ripe, almost over the top nose with notes of blackberry jam, paint and chocolate mousse. Very, very big, maybe a tad so.
The taste is very intense, jammy and tight with notes of blackberries, dark chocolate, figs and moist earth. Very long and very fiery, again, a tad so. Maybe a bit to much for feeble me...
87p   (tasted 2016/02)

2012 Judge Bell Zinfandel
The Judge Bell wine turned out to be my favourite in the line up, beacuse of the noose on the label... The nose oozes up from the glass with lovely notes of forest raspberries, crushed rocks, Cigar smoke and lots of sweet flowers. Complex and deep. This is really fine. There is Carignan and Grenache in the blend.
The taste is young, tight and focused with notes of ripe red plums, dried flowers sun warm rocks and a touch of Cigar. A long, structured finish with an excellent balance. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2016/02)

2013 Pesenti Zinfandel
Also a Zinfandel, Carignan and Grenache blend, this lovely wine showcase a deep nose with notes of ripe blueberries, diesel fumes, minerals and liquorice. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is big and forward with notes of more ripe cherries instead of the usual blue- and blackberries, with additional notes of warm tiles, tobacco and leather. Long and warm. The acidity shows more in this one than in the others, giving it a different taste profile. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2016/02)

2013 Fredericki Vineyard Zinfandel
A big, powerful, intense nose with notes of figs, raw rubber, smoke and sweet minerals. Verging on Port on the nose. Very deep.
The taste is very big and broad with notes of chocolate covered blackberries, wood smoke, burnt rubber and crushed rocks. The finish is very long and in the end there are some alcohol popping through. Although good this is not really my cup of tea.
87p   (tasted 2016/02)

2012 Estate Petite Syrah
With the last three we changed profile an structure of the wines. The 2012 Estate Petite Syrah sports a deep, peppery nose with notes of tomatoe juice, violets, meat and crowberries. Very interesting. And good!
The taste is young, tight and peppery with notes of sweet lingonberries, veal stock, violets and cigarette ashes. Long and seedy. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2016/02)

2012 Hayne Vineyard Petite Syrah
The 12 Hayne is a stunner! The nose is very focused and intense with notes of dried blueberries, sweet violets, flowers and a whole gas station. Impressive. A high, pure nose with lots to offer for the future.
The taste is very young and concentrated with notes of ripe blueberries, crushed black pepper, violets and ink. The finish goes on for minutes. This will need serious time in the cellar. Great wine in the making.
93p   (tasted 2016/02)

2006 Hayne Vineyard Petite Syrah
The 6 year older version is also a stunner! The nose has more or less the same characteristics as the 12 but time has rounded of the edges somewhat. A lovely nose full of rubber, fire smoke and rubber - yummy!
The taste is more on the same page as the 12 in that it doesn´t seem to have aged a bit - very intense, very long and very impressive. Built for ages. Really, really fine.
93p   (tasted 2016/02)

Saturday, 12 March 2016

Drinking Tonight - 2005 & 2009 Volnay 1er Cru les Brouillards, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay

I have been byuing bottles from Domaine Glantenay after drinking some oustanding bottles from the Domaine (see below) and tonight it was time for two bottles of one of their Volnay 1er Cru.

2005 Volnay 1er Cru les Brouillards, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
A deep, heady, meaty nose with gorgeous notes of wild raspberries with some cherries chucked in, dried flowers, a fine smoky note, reminiscent of bacon, and a sweet mineral note. This is in a lovely place in time on the nose, although I would surely love it even more in 5+ years time.
The taste is tight and sturdy with lots of tannins and acidity with notes of dried raspberries, violets, Asian spices and dried flowers. A long, sandy, young finish with a lovely structure and persistence. A really fine wine that will surely become even better in 5+ years time.
92p   (tasted 2016/03)

2009 Volnay 1er Cru les Brouillards, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
The 05 is really, really good, but the 09...that´s what dreams are made of. The nose is marvellous with high, refined aromas of ripe raspberries with some wild strawberries mixed in and additional notes of rosemary, gravel and vegetable stock. Very, very floral. Just lovely. Young and upfront of course but there is lots of stuffing here. Great.
The taste is young, velvety and at the same time seedy and focused with notes of ripe raspberries, strawberries, earth, dried herbs and yellow beets. The finish is long, complex and handsome. Young and impressive. I would love to have cases of this to follow over the coming 20+ years. A great wine now and a masterpiece in the making.
95p   (tasted 2016/03)

Others bottles tasted from the Domaine:
2006 & 2007 Volnay, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay

2008 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay

2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières, Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay

Sunday, 6 March 2016

1988 Coltassala, Castello di Volpaia & 1988 Vigna Il Chiuso, Castello di Ama

Sunday dinner - a classic meat loaf with a cream sauce (based on some Bordeaux left overs and Port wine) and cooked potatoes - a hearthy meal which perfectly complemented these mature Tuscan bottles.

1988 Coltassala, Castello di Volpaia
A mature, warm, round nose with notes of black cherries, black olive tapenade, asphalt and old leather. A fine warmth. Some asphalt scents after a while. Fully mature. Good.
The taste is mature and warm with notes of dried cherries, leather, warm gravel and rosemary. A fine warmth. Medium long. Some tobacco. This har matured nicely but is on its last leg. 95% Sangiovete and 5% Mammolo.
85p   (tasted 2016/02)

1988 Vigna Il Chiuso, Castello di Ama
A whole another ball game - a high, spirited, deep, nose with lovely notes of sweet red and black cherries, wood smoke, dried flowers, dried raspberries and dark spices. This sparks a lot of interest. Very, very good. Mature but not overly so, this still has a lot to offer. Great!
The taste is structured, warm and dry with notes of ripe, dried raspberries, assorted herbs, sun warm gravel, violets and a touch of Cherry Heering. The finish is long, taut and impressive, with a fine acidity. A very fine mouth feel. An odd Pinot, but really good. This is the second vintage of Il Chiuso. Probably on its peak, I will drink my remaining bottles soon, and that will not feel like a heavy task...
92p   (tasted 2016/02)

Friday, 4 March 2016

Friday Dinner Barolo - 1993 Barolo Vigna D´La Roul, Rocche Dei Manzone

I had the urge for some mature Nebbiolo to go together with some Italian delicatessen.

1993 Barolo Vigna D´La Roul, Rocche Dei Manzone 
Right from the start this displays lovely mature notes in the form of dried cherries, a damp forrest, tobacco and smoke. A very fine maturity. Lots of rosehips after some time in the glass. Very, very good.
The taste is mature, round and gorgeous with notes of dried cherries, fresh mushrooms, forest floor and sweet tobacco. Some dry chocolate notes. This is drinking great on this evening.
90p   (tasted 2016/02)

Earlier Friday Dinner Baroli:
19?? Barolo, Giuseppe Mascarello
2003 Barolo Pressenda, Marziano Abbona
2001 Barolo, Cantine Manfredi
1978 Barolo, Moscone
1997 Barolo Vigna Enrico VI, Cordero di Montezemolo
1996 Barolo Cannubi Boschis Riserva, Virna Borgogno

Thursday, 3 March 2016

2008 Endre, Kapcsándy

I was deeply impressed when I last year got the chance to taste the wines from Kapcsándy. But this wine, their "simplest" bottling (although there is nothing simple with this!), was not poured. I just had to try it!

2008 Endre, Kapcsándy
This 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot blend showcases a deep, creamy nose with gorgeous notes of ripe black currants, espresso, graphite, sweet violets and new leather. Very velvety and concentrated. Rich yet firm. Evolves all evening long. On day two it is a tad firmer. Needs time.
The taste is tight and pure with notes of black currants, plums, pencil shavings and cold coffee. The finish is long, structured and firm. Lots of velvety tannins. Again, a bit firmer and more tannins showing on day two. This is goood, but I would bet that 3-5 years in the cellar would make it even greater.
93p   (tasted 2016/02)