Saturday, 26 September 2015

Preparing For Tonight

The pigeons are in the owen, the sweetbreads are picked into small pieces and the chanterelles are up for cleaning. A few more things are waiting to be dealt with.

And here are the backsides of an eclectic selection that we hopefully will be enjoying in a couple of hours. Notes to follow.

Friday, 25 September 2015

Some Miscellaneous Bottles

All Chardonnay as it happens! All drunk over the last couple of weeks.

1995 Pouilly-Fuissé, Château Fuissé
A fine, somewhat restrained, still youngish nose with notes of lemon cream, almond paste, cold cream and a touch of matchbox. Some sweet minerals. Very good. Deep and fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of lemon peel, rhubarb, flint and hard lemon candy. A fine laid back creamy feeling. A fine acidity. This still needs a couple of years until it is fully mature.
The 2013 Les Brulés tasted here.
90p   (tasted 2015/09)

1996 Jacob´s Creek Chardonnay
Could a relatively simple Chardonnay from down under have survived for 19 years?
It seems so. The nose is big, mature and creamy with notes of dry honey, decaying flowers, wrinkled yellow apples and moist earth. Some dry toothpaste in the background. Definitely hanging in there.
The taste is big, warm and dry with notes of dried yellow fruit, gravel, dried flowers and earth. A little low on acidity and the mid palate is a tad hollow, but it is still very drinkable.
78p   (tasted 2015/09)

1996 Bourgogne Cuvée Des Coutures, Sylvain Dussort
The surprise is lesser that this 96 Bourgogne has survived. Not only survived, it delivers some pleasure until the bottle is finished. The nose is medium deep, steely and sleek with notes of assorted nuts, spices, dried flowers, matchbox and lemon peel. A salty touch. Very good.
The taste is cool, somewhat mature and dry with notes of lemon cream, minerals, grapefruit and matchbox. A salty note on the palate as well. A medium long finish with a fresh acidity. Very good.
86p   (tasted 2015/09)

2012 Old Stones Chardonnay, Bergström
This has a fine, spicy, flowery nose with notes of crushed rocks, lemon peel and candle grease. A bit withdrawn but in a good way. Very good.
The taste is young, tight and dry with notes of ripening yellow apples, some white pepper, dry fudge and a hint of butter. A medium long finish with a earthy character. Very good. Still young.
88p   (tasted 2015/09)

2013 Piodilei, Pio Cesare
This Langhe Chardonnay didn´t convince. The nose is big, outgoing and a bit clumpsy with notes of ripe oranges, cream, rhubarb and matchbox. Lack a bit of energy. Not bad but not anything to write home about.
The taste is big and steady with notes of sweet lemons, earth and stale nuts. A high acidity but not the body to absorb it, which gives it a unbalanced character. Maybe time will help?
76p   (tasted 2015/09)

Wednesday, 23 September 2015

Two 1992 Sweeties

These were tasted a couple of weeks ago. Unknown producers for me, but these 23 year old Chenin Blanc´s have held up well and delivered a lot of pleasure at the end of dinner.

1992 Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu Les Quarts, Domaine de la Closerie
This has a nice, semi sweet nose with notes of almond paste, hay, asphalt and some pine apple juice. A touch of botrytis. Medium deep and good. A fine maturity.
The taste is big and semi sweet with notes of dried peaches, oilcloth, flower water and asphalt. A medium long finish with a fine acidity. Very good and fully mature.
87p   (tasted 2015/08)

1992 Quarts de Chaume, Château de L´Echarderie
The Quarts de Chaume displays a deeper and more concentrated nose with notes of dried tropical fruits, detergent, almond cookies and a touch of saffron. A little muted though. Fully mature.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of candied orange peel, detergent, saffron dusted tropical fruit and gravel. A long, intense, sweet finish. The acidity doesn't come through as in the wine above, which makes the taste a tad heavy. Good though.
85p   (tasted 2015/08)

Monday, 21 September 2015

2004 Barbaresco Vigna Rongallo, Orlando Abrigo

I had never tasted anything from Orlando Abrigo when this Barbaresco passed my way. I bought a couple and also some of their Barbaresco Montersino.
But I start with the best! The Rongalio is only produced in the best vintages and the grapes come from the oldest vine from the vineyard Rocche Meruzzano. It is aged in large Slavonian oak casks for between 18 and 24 months.

2004 Barbaresco Vigna Rongallo, Orlando Abrigo
It need some time to open in the glass but soon fine aromas of red cherries, violets, forest floor, dried mushrooms and a touch of mint oozes from the glass. Very, very good. A bit laid back with a refined character and a nice structure.
The taste is still young and tight with notes of  cherry pips, liquorice, hard cherry candy, rosehips and the same touch of mint as on the nose. Sandy tannins comes through in the long finish. Very fine. This is goood. Should evolve nicely the upcoming 4-6 years. For the asking price, I gonna get me some more bottles of this!
91p   (tasted 2015/09)


Friday, 18 September 2015

Drinking Tonight - 2014 Pouilly Fumé, Jonathan Didier Pabiot

I tasted the 2013 recently and when I decided to buy even more of it, the vintage had changed to 2014. Lets find out if this equally good.

2014 Pouilly Fumé, Jonathan Didier Pabiot
Not quite. The one year younger version has a very stony, dusty, earthy nose that with air and some vigorous swirling expose notes of grass, matchbox, goose berries and a hint of green peppers. Very young, very green and even a touch anemic.
The taste is young, cool and fresh with notes of crushed rocks, not yet ripe pears, grass and lime peel. A high, pure acidity. A green streak. Medium long and fine. Very fresh and drinking well, but it is more grassy and greener than the 2013.
88p   (tasted 2015/09)

Thursday, 17 September 2015

Eight Vintages & One Old Multivintage Of Moulin Touchais

Vinunic invited, Frederik Willbrenninck told us about the history of the estate and the current state of affairs and yours truly enjoyed the wines!

1999 Moulin Touchais
A cool, fine nose with notes of pine apple juice, some rubber, honey and some botrytis. A bit on the light side but very nice.
The taste feels fatter and broader than the nose with notes of ripe pine apples, peach, lanolin and moist earth. Good but lacks a bit of depth.
85p   (tasted 2015/09)

1997 Moulin Touchais
The 07 is a winner. The nose is deep and refined with notes of peach, smoke, detergent and sweet flowers. Very, very good. A bit restrained. This is going to age well.
The taste is concentrated, long and intense with a wonderful sweetness balanced with a fine acidity. Notes of ripe peaches, apricots, soap and flowers. Complex and fine. Has a long life ahead of it.
93p   (tasted 2015/09)

1983 Moulin Touchais
This has an overripe, somewhat oxidized nose with notes of (over)ripe yellow plums, matchbox, moist earth and a hint of an old cellar. Not bad but there is no nerve here.
The taste is big, semi sweet and foursquare with notes of dried plums, forest floor, paint and dried flowers. The finish is medium long and ends semi dry.
Frederik told us that way back the estate decided not to release the 1983 as a Moulin Touchais, but some was released as a Anjou Blanc in Sweden. Seems like I have one left, gonna try it soon. But after many years in their cellar they tasted the 1983 again and now deemed it good enough to release as Moulin Touchais. Based on this sample, I´m not sure it was the best decision.
79p   (tasted 2015/09)

1981 Moulin Touchais
The 81 is fresher and feels younger than the 83. The nose is a little low keyed but shows nice scents of plums, flowers, moist earth and tangerines. Very fresh.
The taste is bigger than the nose leads you to believe with fine notes of dried apricots, crumbled vanilla cookies, dried flowers and caramel. A medium long finis that ends medium dry. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2015/09)

1985 Moulin Touchais
This is a perennial favourite of mine. After the tasting in 1992 (see below) I went out and bought a case, and still have 5 bottles left. When I tasted it in 1992 with the 1885 beside I wrote - "this will rival the 1885 in due course". But sadly I won´t be around to see if that prediction will be fulfilled.
The nose is just wonderful with its concentration, focus and lightness. Lovely notes of yellow plums, wet asphalt, flowers, oilcloth and dry vanilla ice cream oozes up from the glass.
The taste is beautifully clean and radiant with notes of ripe yellow apples, resin, flowers and oilcloth. The finish goes on for a minute. This has the stuffing to outlive me by many years. Buy some, you won´t regret it.
94p   (tasted 2015/09)

1975 Moulin Touchais
The ten year older version has an interesting nose with notes of sweet/sour lemons, rubber, cigarette smoke, dry vanilla, caramel and earth. There are lots going on here, and it is good!
The taste is tight and on its way to maturity with notes of dried plums, apricots, earth and dry caramel. A high, fine acidity. Very long and ends semi dry. Very, very fine.
92p   (tasted 2015/09)

2001 Moulin Touchais
This youngster sports a deep, concentrated nose with notes of quince, tangerines, plums, oilcloth and summer flowers. A very young, upfront nose with lots of character. A fine nerve to it. Very fine.
The taste is refined and pure with notes of plums, oilcloth, flowers, ski wax and a touch of smoke. A creamy finish with some botrytis. Long and fine. This has a splendid future ahead of itself.
92p   (tasted 2015/09)

2000 Moulin Touchais
A young, tight, semi dry nose with notes of lemon cream, apricots, band aid and some green scents. Not much sweetness and no botrytis. Good though.
The taste is medium bodied and semi dry with notes of lemon peel, yellow plums, moist earth and oilcloth. Some warm grass. The acidity is high and there is not enough sweetness to balance it. Wait and see.
82p   (tasted 2015/09)

NV Moulin Touchais Century Reserve
Now for something completely different. In a rare sense. It is Moulin Touchais alright. "A illegal one" as Frederic said. In the 50´s when recorking all 19th century bottles they found a bunch of bottles with low fills. They blended all of them in barrels and in 1955 they rebottled the blended wine in the original bottles. The average vintage of the blend is 1875...
The nose is a bit low keyed yet intense, with notes of dry peach, detergent, burnt caramel, cigarette smoke in a distance and forest floor. A fine depth and multi-layered in a way only really old, great wines can achieve.
The taste is fine and elegant with a touch of sweetness and notes of dried apricots, detergent, blood orange peel, old red apples and moist earth. A very long, dry, intense finish. Really fine and a testament to the longevity of Moulin Touchais.
92p   (tasted 2015/09)

I have attended two major tastings of Moulin Touchais over the years, apart from the odd bottle here and there.
The first one was in September 1992 and interesting enough that one was hosted by Alex Willbrenninck, Frederiks father! The following vintages was poured:

1885 Moulin Touchais   (100p)
1892 Moulin Touchais   (82p)
1921 Moulin Touchais   (89p)
1937 Moulin Touchais   (92p)
1955 Moulin Touchais   (84p)
1964 Moulin Touchais   (96p)
1971 Moulin Touchais   (86p)
1981 Moulin Touchais   (82p)
1985 Moulin Touchais   (94p)

Ten years later, in September (this month seems to be the Moulin Touchais month!) 2002 I arranged a tasting with the following vintages:

1947 Moulin Touchais   (92p)
1959 Moulin Touchais   (96p)
1964 Moulin Touchais   (98p)
1969 Moulin Touchais   (95p)
1971 Moulin Touchais   (86p)
1979 Moulin Touchais   (90p)
1982 Moulin Touchais   (84p)
1985 Moulin Touchais   (92p)
1990 Moulin Touchais   (89p)

Wednesday, 16 September 2015

Two Bottles Of Brunello di Montalcino

After my Brunello project, I find myself from time to time urging a bottle (or two) of Sangiovese from the Montalcino hills. These two were drunk with dinner in the last couple of weeks.

2004 Brunello di Montalcino, Cassiano
A new acquaintance for me. The nose is medium deep with a hint of maturity and notes of meaty cherries, violets, gravel and dry tobacco. Well structured, a bit withdrawn and good.
The taste is fine and earthy with a nice warmth and notes of dried cherries, liquorice, tobacco and dried rosemary. A medium long finish a nice dry ending. Very good with the food. You could surely keep any remaining bottles for 5+ years but I don´t think they will get better than this.
86p   (tasted 2015/08)

1993 Brunello di Montalcino, Tenuta Caparzo
I tasted a bunch of Brunello´s from Caparzo during my project and liked them a lot. But this vintage from them is new to me. And as I have said before, I think that 1993 is a underrated vintage in both Tuscany and Piemonte.
A open, finely tuned, perfectly mature greats the nose. Fine notes of ripe red cherries, cigarette smoke, hard cherry candy, pork rinds and dried rosemary. Medium deep. A lovely nose of a mature Brunello.
The taste is mature, tight and dry with notes of red cherries, rowanberries, dried herbs and undergrowth. A fine finish that ends dry. The nose promised more cherry sweetness than the taste delivered, but this still is a fine mature Brunello. And it worked wonders with the home made truffle pizza!
89p   (tasted 2015/09)


Monday, 14 September 2015

Keller, Keller, Keller.....& More Keller!

S invited to a very interesting tasting of four (that became five!) vintages of Kellers cru´s - Hubacher, Kirchspiel, Morstein and Abtserde. And one G-Max!

We knew that the flights would be the different cru´s together, but it was blind both which cru it was (though it got easier with each passing flight...:-)) and in which order the vintages came. The last flight - number five - was completely blind but the info was that we should be able to guess the wines correctly based on the previous four flights.
It was a very fascinating tasting and proof of what world class wines Klaus Peter Keller produces.

Some reflections on the vintages: I had on average the highest scores on the wines from 2007. If the 09 Abtserde wouldn´t have been corked I would venture that 09 should have been on the same level. The 08´s was very fine but still very youngish and a touch angular. The 06´s was the only wines that displayed any signs of maturity and except for the Hubacher they didn´t reach the height of the other vintages.

2009 Von Der Fels, Keller
As a starter this was poured. It still has a young, fresh nose with notes of slate, pear, birch sap and a touch of vanilla. Very nice.
The taste is young and tight with a fresh acidity and notes of pear ice cream, chalk, birch leaves and a touch of rubber. Very good.
88p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight One
2008 Hubacker, Keller
A young, flinty nose with notes of pear, lemon peel, gooseberries and a fine floral scent. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and pure with notes of white currants, lemon cream and summer flowers. A very good acidity. Long and fine. A good body on this.
92p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Hubacker, Keller
A bigger nose than the previous wine, with fine notes of lemon cream, soap, smoke and earth. Very, very good. Deep.
The taste is young and tight with a Chablis like character, and notes of lemon cream, hay, chalk and smoke. A long, aristocratic finish with a high and pure acidity. Really fine.
93p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Hubacker, Keller
And the 06 is the best, although it was pretty unanimous that this was 08 and that the flight was Kirchspiel... Ah, well, the wine is stunning with its deep, refined nose with notes of lemon grass oil, crushed rocks, grass and ripe yellow pears. Very deep and fine.
The taste is big and impressive with notes of lemon cream, dried flowers, grass and a hint of rubber. A lovely mouth feel. Long, long, long. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Two
2008 Kirchspiel, Keller
Tasted only a month ago, and it performs just as good on this night. Deep and complex, although it was a tad more restrained than a month ago, both on the nose and on the palate. Very, very fine.
93p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Kirchspiel, Keller
The 07 Kirchspiel is a stunner. The nose is cool, refined and deep with notes of chalk, lemon peel, cap gun smoke, yellow roses and a hint of vanilla pod. Beautiful.
The taste is very tight, pure and racy with notes of lemon and lime peel, chalk, crushed rocks and white currants. The acidity is of the charts. Very long. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Kirchspiel, Keller
This has a tight, restrained nose with notes of warm grass, dried tropical fruit and a touch of rubber. More mature than the two previous ones and not as focused. But still a very fine wine.
The taste is pure and tight with some maturity and notes of lemon cream, slate, grass and dried peach. Very long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Three
2008 Morstein, Keller
A deep, spicy, lovely nose with notes of concentrated lemon juice, red lemon, liquorice and some hay. A very fine spicy character. Very deep and refined.
The taste also has that spicy element with additional notes of blood orange, gravel and red currants. A very long finish with a stunning acidity. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Morstein, Keller
When I had finished my glass I could only concur with Tank - That´s what dreams are made of.
The nose is deep, refined and spicy with stunning notes of blood oranges, sweet minerals, rose petals, asphalt and matchbox. This is gooooood!
The taste is just wonderful with its balance between spicy yellow fruit, a racy acidity and a two minute long finish. Red lemon, chalk, roses and gravel. Truly great.
98p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Morstein, Keller
The 06 Morstein is, again, the most mature of the three, even though it has a long way to go. The nose is deep and concentrated with notes of earth, Christmas spices, lemon cream and dried flowers. A bit dense. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, seedy and deep with notes of dried tropical fruits, lemon cream, mud and a hint of liquorice. Long and fine, but as with the nose, a bit dense.
91p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Four
2008 Abtserde, Keller
It was no problem guessing which cru this was... The 08 is a masterpiece. The nose is cool, pure and refined with notes of dark lemons, vanilla ice cream, birch sap and lots of crushed rocks. Very, very deep. Just lovely.
The taste is very tight and fresh with notes of grapefruit, birch sap, earth and a hint of vanilla pods. A very long, focused finish with a high acidity. A taut structure with a light character. Great!
97p   (tasted 2015/08)

2007 Abtserde, Keller
The 07 Abtserde is almost as good as the 08, and has a deep, pure nose with notes of sea shells, grapefruit, potato peels and lots of chalk. Very fine. A lovely depth and structure.
The taste is very taut and concentrated with notes of dark lemons, birch leaves, earth and lemon liquorice. A cool, fresh acidity that takes the finish away for minutes. Very refined. A stunning wine.
96p   (tasted 2015/08)

2006 Abtserde, Keller
The 06 Abtserde doesn´t reach the height of the two younger vintages, but it is a very good wine on its own. The nose is deep and a bit restrained with notes of red lemons, mud, dried flowers and some grilled limes. Deep and fine with a fine warmth.
The taste is big and steady with notes of lemon cream, dried flowers, sweet minerals and lemon liquorice. Long and warm. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2015/08)

Flight Five
2009 Hubacker, Keller
We actually nailed this as Hubacher - even a blind hen... The nose is young and restrained with notes of wild strawberries, sweet lemon, pear and lots of chalk. Very young and very good.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of lemon peel, dried melon, lemon liquorice and gravel. A long, slim finish with a fine acidity. Needs time.
92p   (tasted 2015/08)

2009 Kirchspiel, Keller
And we kept on hitting the bulls eye - everyone nailed this a Kirchspiel. It has a young, earthy, cool nose with notes of crushed rocks, sea shells, lemon peel and cap gun smoke. Very fresh and pure. Really fine.
The taste is young, creamy and pure with notes of grapefruit, cucumber water, smoke and a fine salty note. A long, restrained finish with a very fine acidity. This will turn out great with 5+ more years in the cellar.
94p   (tasted 2015/08)

2009 Abtserde, Keller
#¤%&¤#"!! The only corked bottle thankfully, yet every time it happens you get so frustrated!

2012 G-Max, Keller
Did anyone nail this as G-Max? No... Still, a marvellous wine. The nose is deep and very spicy with notes of ripe yellow apples, lime peel, yellow roses, blood oranges and chalk. Very deep and refined. And very young.
The taste is taut, fresh and pure like a mountain river, with notes of red lemons, yellow apples, grapefruit, herbs and crushed rocks. The finish goes on for minutes. A very high acidity. Very young. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2015/08)

2009 Morstein, Keller
The 09 Morstein is a beauty! The nose is elegant, cool yet very concentrated with notes of grapefruit, cap gun smoke, flower water and earth. Complex and fine. Very deep. Stunning!
The taste is pure, expressive and concentrated with notes of orange peel, chalk, white flowers, grapefruit and smoke. The finish goes on for minutes. Beautifully structured. Brilliant!
96p   (tasted 2015/08)

2005 Kirchspiel, Keller
This was kindly opened by S as a replacement for the corked Abtserde. This ten year old Kirchspiel has a wonderful nose with notes of red lemons, Christmas spices, earth and dried flowers. Very pure and racy. Lovely.
The taste is tight and pure with notes of red lemons, lime cream, lemon liquorice, spices and dusty earth. A very fine dryness. Long, long and long. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/08)


Sunday, 13 September 2015

Two Bottles Of 1959 Pommard

These youngsters were opened the other week at one of our monthly tasting group sessions. A five star vintage according to Broadbent, and these bottles proved their part. Popped and poured.

1959 Pommard, P. Naudin-Varrault
With a bit of air it displays a mature, round, earthy nose with notes of dried raspberries, tobacco, herbs and liquorice. A fine dried up sweetness to the fruit. A hint of raspberry vinegar. Mature but not overly so. Very good.
The taste is cool, dry and mature with notes of red beets, forest floor, dried raspberries and pipe tobacco. A good length with a nice acidity. Drinking well, and went down well with the food, in the shape of a chicken terrine.
89p   (tasted 2015/08)

1959 Pommard Clos Blanc, Roger Clerget
From the get go to the finishing of the bottle a couple of hours later, this was a stunner. The nose is deep, dark and mature with notes of ripe raspberries, forest floor, raspberry liquorice, root vegetables and leather. Very, very fine. On its plateau of maturity.
The taste is big and concentrated with a fine maturity and notes of dried strawberries, moist earth, rosehip, parsnip and tobacco. A very long and intense finish. This is really fine. Well stored bottles will surely keep on this level for another 5+ years.
94p   (tasted 2015/08)

Saturday, 12 September 2015

A Dear Reunion - 2001 Les Aspres Syrah, Domaine Cros

One of the wines that I have tasted the most times, I have gone through over two cases since I first tasted it in 2004. Now it was three years ago I tasted what I thought was my last bottle, but I managed to get hold on some more.
I felt the urge for a mature Syrah when I was looking for a bottle to go with home grilled burgers. This should fit the bill.

2001 Les Aspres Syrah, Domaine Cros
This hasn´t budged much during these years. The nose is still deep and black with lovely notes of sweet black cherries, moist earth, raspberry liquorice and warm herbs. Some bonfire notes in the background. Very, very deep. Gorgeous fruit. Great wine!
The taste is velvety yet firm with lots and lots of sweet black fruits, nicely integrated tannins and a long, warm, complex finish. It has a great structure and stuffing to keep going for at least 10 more years. Wish I had bought even more...
95p   (tasted 2015/09)

Sunday, 6 September 2015

1958 Barolo Riserva, Prunotto & 1958 Barolo, Cappellano

These old timers were tasted at our latest tasting group get together. 1958 is one of the great vintages in Piemonte. In Renato Ratti´s vintage chart 1958 is described as "Great year. Not a very robust wine but full of excellent substance, exceptional elegance and intense perfume".
Both bottles were opened 6 hours before the tasting and decanted 1,5 hours before the first pour.

1958 Barolo Riserva, Prunotto
This has a deep ,ethereal, beautiful nose from the get go. Lots of rosehips, rowan berries, dried cherries, old tobacco and a touch of band aid. Very complex. Holds well over the evening. Really fine.
The taste is mature, dry and intense with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, tar and rose petals. A very long, intense, yet light and floral finish. A wonderful mature Barolo. Great wine.
93p   (tasted 2015/08)

1958 Barolo, Cappellano
For the first half hour I actually had the Prunotto as the better wine. But then this came roaring. And it kept on roaring the whole evening. The nose is bottomless deep with gorgeous notes of dried strawberries, root vegetables, hard cherry candy, a tarred rowboat and lots and lots of ceps. Just beautiful.
The taste is maturity, purity and complexity perfectly combined with notes of dried cherries, tobacco, rosehips, dried mushrooms and tar. There is a lovely elegance in the minute long finish. A fine warmth. This is as good as it gets.
Since the late Theobaldo didn´t want his wines to be scored, I never do.   (tasted 2015/08)

Barolo & gnocchi with pancetta and fried sage

Friday, 4 September 2015

Drinking Tonight - 1992 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reyssié, Domaine Valette

A heap of fresh crustaceans and a mature white Burgundy - a recipe for a great friday evening!

1992 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reyssié, Domaine Valette
Right out of the bottle this gives pure joy. A deep, round, mature nose with notes of dried apricots, almond paste, butter fried nuts, dried flowers and some smokey aromas. Very, very good. I opened it one hour before dinner and now, two hours later, it keeps things together nicely.
The taste is broad, mature and velvety with notes of apricot bread, matchbox, assorted nuts and moist autumn leaves. Long and concentrated. Perfectly mature. A fine warmth. Drinking great on this evening.
91p   (tasted 2015/09)

Thursday, 3 September 2015

Two Old Bottles Of Louis Roederer & A New One

These were tasted a couple of days ago.

NV Louis Roederer
According to the seller this is from the 50´s. I wrote to Louis Roederer a couple of weeks ago and asked about these two bottles, but sorry to say, I haven´t got an answer.
An old, oxidized nose with notes of mushroom cream, Amontillado, old wrinkled apples and old caramel. This is overly mature but there are also some charm if you, like me, like mature wines.
The taste is a bit fresher with notes of mature red apples, mushrooms, dried flowers and earth. The finish is medium long and dry. No mousse what so ever.
76p   (tasted 2015/08)

NV Louis Roederer
The information from the seller in this case, indicates that this is from the 60´s. It has a much fresher nose with notes of ripe apples, dark fudge, mushrooms and flowers. Very good. A fine perfumed note after a while.
The taste is mature but takes a firm grip round your taste buds with notes of lemon cream, yellow apples, caramel and flowers. The mousse is a bit on the light side but definitely there. Very good. Long. A very fine maturity.
88p   (tasted 2015/08)

NV Louis Roederer
Tasted beside the previous bottles this feels very young and - today at least - simple. The nose is light and fresh with notes of lemon peel, white currants and gravel. Finely tuned but on the light side of things.
The taste is young and steely with notes of lemon, lime and crushed rocks. A fine, high acidity. Will need time. Good.
85p   (tasted 2015/08)

When we had tasted the bottles we played master blender. The best combination was - for me - 2/3 of the 50´s bottle and 1/3 of the new one. Another fine blend was 4/5 of the 60´s bottle and 1/5 of the new one.
It boggles the mind when you remember that Krug Grande Cuvée is a blend of 142 wines!

Wednesday, 2 September 2015

Exploring The Forgotten Side Of Bordeaux - Chapter XI

These were tasted at our tasting groups last session. In Chapter I I tasted two other vintages of Domaine de Chevalier and gave some info about the estate.

1983 Domaine de Chevalier
A mature, somehat oxidized nose with notes of model clay, decaying flowers, old lemons and lanolin. There are some nice things going on here, but at the same time the touch of oxidation spoils the nose.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of old wrinkled yellow apples, rubber, green tea and lemon peel. The oxidized felling it less noticable in the mouth. Medium long. Good but no more.
80p   (tasted 2015/08)

2003 Domaine de Chevalier
The 20 year younger version is a whole another ball game. The nose is deep, refined and almost electric with notes of sour/sweet lemons, lanolin, crushed rocks, dry honey and rubber. Intense and very fine.
The taste is structured and complex with lots of ripe yellow fruit and additonal notes of lanolin, apricots, crushed rocks and sweet flowers. A very fine acidty and mouth feel. This will turn out as fine as the 1997 with 5+ years in the cellar. Fine stuff.
93p   (tasted 2015/08)