Monday, 30 September 2013

Just Bought

Arriving home from our mini vacation, a package has arrived with yet another 1964. I have very high hopes on this one - it gets a whopping 75p score from our big friend over there...
A couple of years ago I was poured (double blind) a real beauty of a wine which I scored 95p. It turned out to be the 1964 Branaire-Ducru, which Parker had scored 70p. So with that analogy this should be a perfect 100p! :-)
And doesn´t Palmer have one of the most beautiful labels?

Saturday, 28 September 2013

Barolo On The Road - 2004 Barolo Pajana, Domenico Clerico

This night it was time for another 2004. I opened this a year ago and instead of writing a long tasting note, I can just say that it behaved almost identical tonight, maybe a tad more shut down. Will have to wait 5-7+ years for the remaining bottles, if I can...
This time it gets 92p   (tasted 2013/09).

Pajana from Clerico is definitely one of my favourite Barolos - here are some notes of the 1990 (the first vintage), 1996, 1998, 1998 and 2001.

Thursday, 26 September 2013

Barolo On The Road - 1990 Barolo Riserva, E. Pira

This evening its time to open a bottle of mature Barolo. Visiting E Pira some 10 years ago was very interesting, since Chiara, at that time, was doing her malo in her living room...don´t ask...
And later on she was sabering a magnum of Champagne and opening a bottle of 1971 E. Pira we brought - it was a interesting visit indeed. :-)

1990 Barolo Riserva, E. Pira
The nose is deep, mature and hedonistic with notes of dried red berries, autumn leaves, dried mushrooms, tons of truffles and a touch of dog fur. Complex and interesting. , Deep and gorgeously sweet.
The taste is round, warm and mature with notes of dried cherries, moist earth, dried mushrooms, licorice and some leathery aromas. Long, warm and very fine. This is drinking perfect now.
90p   (tasted 2013/09)

Wednesday, 25 September 2013

Barolo On The Road - 2004 Vigna Giachini, Fratelli Revello

As for six months ago me and my better half is on a short vacation in the south of Sweden. Now as then I bring Barolo. Its a must. This first night I open this bottle:

2004 Barolo Vigna Giachini, Fratello Revello
When we visited Revello when the 04´s just were released I thought that the Giacchini were the most approachable. Time to check out how it is doing now.
The nose is wonderful pure and intense with sweet notes of red currants, hard cherry candy, licorice, thyme, mushrooms and some bonfire scents. Very, very fine. This has a hint of maturity. A high, crisp nose.
The taste feels younger than the nose with lots of sweet red currants, red cherries, cigarette ashes, mushrooms and dark minerals. The tannins are finely grained and integrated. This could use 2-4 years in the cellar but there is no problem finishing a bottle on this evening. Soon its time to check up on the Gattera, Conca and the Rocche dell´Annunziata.
92p   (tasted 2013/09)

Tuesday, 24 September 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XXXV

The last chapter is tasted. And what a tasting! One corked bottle but besides that it was a showing of great Brunello´s from a great year. They all have the stuffing for further progress, yet they were very easy to drink with a lovely mouth feel, something I noticed the day after...
All that is left of this project now is the Epilogue - coming soon.

The Brunello´s were tasted single blind. All decanted two hours before the first pour.
The rest of the bottle will show up in a separate post.

Flight I
2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Fuligni
A deep, complex, multi layered nose with notes of sweet cherries, violets, licorice and sun warm Tuscan gravel. Very, very fine. Some balsamic notes after a while. Lovely. Very sweet fruit. Great balance.
The taste is big, tight and concentrated with notes of sweet red cherries, licorice, warm herbs, dark cookie dough and moist earth. A fine oak treatment. Very long and complex. This has a hint of maturity, but will surely evolve more the upcoming 3-5 years. Stunning.
94p   (tasted 2013/09)

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso Riserva Santa Caterina d´Oro, Ciacci Piccolomini d´Aragona
And I thought that Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese + producer used to be a long name of a wine to jot down...This impressive Riserva has an even longer one - and what a wine! The nose soars up from the glass with scents of black cherries, rose petals, dried herbs and a hint of chocolate. Deep and fine.
The taste is young, tight and intense with notes of sour/sweet cherries, licorice, balsa wood and dried flowers. Great length. The tannins are finely polished and are very noticable in the finish. This needs 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2013/09)

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne, Donatella Cinelli Colombini
It must be the female touch, beacause this is a beauty! The nose is full of ripe cherries, rosehips, summer flowers, sweet minerals and a fine Cobiha note. Deep, elegant and utterly gorgeous. You could sit and sniff this all night long.
The taste is aristocratic, intense and deeply hedonistic with notes of ripe cherries, rosehips, gravel. warm tiles and a touch of dark chocolate. A minute long finish with finely polished tannins. The mouth feel is amazing. This beauty is drinkable now but should get even better with 4-6 years in the cellar. Magnificent! Several, me included, had this as their favourite in flight I.
96p   (tasted 2013/09)

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Phenomena, Sesti
Corked! #¤%&#"%(&%¤ A shame since I have never tasted anything from Sesti.

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Il Poggione
A deep, old school nose with lots of red cherries, road dust, herbs and violets. Open up nicely in the glass. A touch of dog fur. Deep and powerful. Very, very good.
The taste is full of big, brawny tannins and sweet/sour cherries. In the minute long finish there is lots of sweet minerals and high acidity. This is still young, needs at least 8+ years in the cellar. Impressive.
92p   (tasted 2013/09)

Flight II
2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Canalicchio - Franco Pacenti
A gorgeous nose oozes up from the glass with scents of sweet/sour cherries, licorice, autumn leaves and sage. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. Deep and fine. Some maturity.
The taste is intense, fresh and multi layered with fine notes of sweet black cherries, licorice, violets and minerals. A long, balanced finish with some unresolved tannins in the end. This is very good, and on its way to maturity which it will hit in 3-5 years time.
92p   (tasted 2013/09)

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Conti Costantini
This stunner has a deep, willful, powerful nose that is intoxicating. Gorgeous aromas of cherries marinated in balsamic vinegar, cigarette ashes, licorice and a touch of milk chocolate fills the nose. Stunningly sweet fruit. A head turner for sure.
The taste is a good as the nose lets on - the fruit is amazing, the tannins and acicity backs it all up and the finish goes on for over a minute. Rich and chewy but oh so joyful. Simply wonderful!
95p   (tasted 2013/09)

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento, Col d´Orcia
After tasting the 1982 & 2004 Poggio al Vento I had high expectations on the 2001. And it fulfilled them with flying colors! The nose is intense, high and pure with notes of ripe red cherries, sage leaves, tea bags, dried flowers and warm gravel. Very deep. Lots of sweet minerals. Just lovely. Still very young.
The taste is the proverbial "an iron fist in a velvet glove" - the best way to describe this glorious wine. Ripe red cherries paired with notes of warm tiles, rosehips, dried flowers and gravel. The finish just goes on and on and on. Impressive, but oh so young, this needs 8+ years in the cellar. Will rival the 1982 in due course.
95p   (tasted 2013/09)

2001 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola, Salvioni
Could it get even better? Oh yes, it could! The 2001 Salvioni is a masterpiece, a long the line of the 1997, tasted earlier this year. This is what dreams are made of. Gorgeous aromas of the ripest cherries imaginable, Cohiba ash, dried flowers, violets and a warm Tuscan gravel road. Ethereal in the true sense of the word. And still young and perky.
The taste is velvety yet packing a punch, especially in the extra long finish. Wonderful notes of sweet/sour cherries, rosemary bushes, black tea, leather and warm tiles. The balance and structure is awesome. Perfection in the making, just wait another 6-8 years. Hands down the favourite in flight II.
98p   (tasted 2013/09)

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Case Basse, Soldera
Since we tasted single blind we didn´t know the identity of the wines until we tasted trough the separate flights, but I think all guesses was on Soldera on this backward, massive creature. The nose is bottomless deep and hauntingly beautiful with notes of red currants, red cherries, cigarette ashes, rose petals and dried herbs. A gorgeous perfumed note. But in a sense it felt like we were only scratching the surface, there will be more to come.
The taste is tight, backward and very intense with a wall of sweet tannins and notes of red cherries, tobacco, dusty earth and dried flowers. The finish goes on for ever it seems, but the tannins got the upper hand and it ends dry and even a bit foursquare. It definitely got the stuffing for something really great in 10+ years time. More impressive than hedonistic today.
95p   (tasted 2013/09)

Saturday, 21 September 2013

Preparing For Tonight

This evening should turn out great! The last chapter - number XXXV - in my Brunello project is due with a dinner with 10 bottles from the great 2001 vintage.
You can see from the picture below which bottles that will be opened and drunk (the Riserva´s from Conti Costanti and Canalicchio - Franco Pacenti si delivered by a friend later).
And there are some other bottles as well...
Notes to follow.

Wednesday, 18 September 2013

Two 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

I admit it - back in 2000 I was hooked on Parker´s praise of the 1998 Châteauneuf´s - "this is a profound, possibly once-in-a-lifetime vintage to by in quantity". Ok then, I will buy...
In hindsight it was a lemmel behaviour on my part, more than a genuine interest. Ah, well, you live and learn.

Over the years we have done some nice tastings with the 98´s - in 2003 we tasted 30+ of them. A lot of them have been really, really good, but regardless how good, a Châteauneuf can´t get my spine tingling, like a great Barolo, Burgundy or Bordeaux can.

I still have some 98´s left in a almost forgotten bin - time to test drive two of them.

1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de Beaurenard
A mature, round, nice nose with lots of forest floor, autumn leaves, red currants, dried resin and a touch of bonfire. Earthy and good. Not that much depth, but it is perfectly mature with pleasant fruit.
The taste is bigger than the nose leads on and has a nice warmth and notes of red currants, dried raspberries, garrigue, resin and some smoke. The finish is medium long and warm. Very good. This has matured nicely and even though it doesn´t have heaps of complexity it is drinking really well. Drink up.
88p   (tasted 2013/09)

1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grande Garde, Domaine Saint Benoit
This on the other hand has gone a bit too long in its evolvement. At least on the nose, which is big, ripe and meaty with notes of moist earth, overripe raspberries, Coca-Cola and rosehips. A bit too sweet and barnyardy.
The taste keeps things together in a better fashion. The sweetness is more withdrawn and better integrated in the structure. The finish is long and warm with notes of raspberry licorice, autumn leaves, meat stock and warm herbs. A good acidity. The taste saves this from being overblown. Should have been drunk 5 years ago.
86p   (tasted 2013/09)

Monday, 16 September 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XXXIV

This was a revisit to one of the few Brunello´s I had tasted before this project started. It behaved like a dream just a little more than a year ago, so I was curious how a year gone by in the cellar would show. Lets see!

2007 Brunello di Montalcino, La Gerla
I decanted it one hour before the first pour and then followed it through the evening. It has in one way lost its exuberant nature of last year and has turned a little more sophisticated.
The nose is loaded with sweet black cherries, rosehips, violets, dark chocolate and a Tuscan gravel road during summer. Very deep and fine. With more air a lovely bonfire note emerges. Complex and refined. Stunning!
The taste is big, tight and concentrated with sweet/sour dark cherries, licorice, violets, black tea and dried summer flowers. This has a lovely mouth feel. The finish goes on for over a minute and in the end the finely polished tannins creeps up. Still very young. I hope I can avoid pulling the corks out of the rest of bottles until this beauty hits maturity in 8+ years...
95p   (tasted 2013/09)

Saturday, 14 September 2013

Saturday Dinner Barolo - 2001 & 2004 San Rocco, Azelia

Ever since I put the 2001 & 2004 Bricco Fiasco from Azelia head to head for dinner, I have had a craving to do the same with the San Rocco. It has taken some time but now was the right moment!
With the dying summers last opportunity to grill outside we put some nice meat on the grill and just a had a luke warm potato salad with the tender meat.
I opened the bottles and decanted them for two hours, they needed that time to really show of.
San Rocco is a vineayrd in Serralunga d´Alba and Azelia made its first San Rocco in 1995.

2001 Barolo San Rocco, Azelia
A deep, intense and powerful nose with notes of sweet dark cherries, rosehips en masse, cigar ashes, licorice, violets and rose petals. A wonderful sweetness to the fruit. High and complex. Just lovely. A hint of maturity but this has a long way to go.
The taste is tight and concentrated and feels younger than the nose. Gorgeous notes of red and black cherries, licorice, mushrooms and rose petals. The finish goes on for over a minute and in the end the sandy tannins emerge. A very fine warmth. Has structure and balance. I would give this 5 more years in the cellar but there is no crime open one bottle now. Great wine!
95p   (tasted 2013/09)

2004 Barolo San Rocco, Azelia
The three year younger sibling is more restrained and tough. The nose is deep, concentrated but somewhat withdrawn, with notes of black cherries, blueberries, licorice, hard cherry candy and forest floor. There are lots of good stuff here but it needs more time, even with considerable air it doesn´t really open up.
The taste is young, tough and massive with notes of hard cherry candy, dried strawberries, Christmas spices and cherry pips. The finish is long, warm and focused. The tannins rolls in and takes over the taste after 30 seconds. This is a beauty in the making, but wait at least 7+ years before open a bottle.
92p   (tasted 2013/09)

Thursday, 12 September 2013

The Rossese Report - Part III

Claude Monet 1884
The bridge today
Finding good Rossese is almost impossible outside Liguria and even on location you have too look for it. But in the wonderful small town of Dolceacqua, made famous by Claude Monet´s painting of the ancient bridge that you find in the middle of the town (above) there is a gem.
Just a stone throw from the bridge you will find the Enoteca Trattoria Re. They have an excellent selection, not just of Rossese.

Enoteca Il Forletto in San Remo also carries the best of the bunch when it comes to Rossese. They have an impressive range from other parts of Italy as well, I found some really nice Brunello´s there. After one hour drooling over the shelf's there my better half phoned asking me if I was lost...

Claude Monet 1884
The bridge and tower today

Time for the rest of the Rossese bottles, tasted this summer. The visits to Tenuta Anfosso and Ka*Mancine were great but there were so many more producers to try out. Below are the ones I opened this summer and a few from last year.

2012 Rossese, Antonio Basso
The first super market we stopped at when arriving in Liguria wasn´t very well stocked in the wine department, but I managed to find this Rossese for 7 Euro.
The nose is light, spicy and clean with notes of lingonberries, dried herbs and a touch of white peppar. Nice enough.
The taste is medium bodied with soft tannins and a fine acidity. Notes of lingonberries, dried raspberries and some gravelly notes. A easy drinking, cleanly made wine. The Rossese quest had begun!
83p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua. Terre Bianche
I had mailed Terre Bianche about a visit and got a friendly answer, but mails lost in cyberspace made this a no show. Better luck next time!
For only 5 Euros more than the wine above, you get a whole other experience. The nose is open, spicy and concentrated with notes of mulberries, red cherries, rosemary bushes and a touch of licorice. A very good 2011.
The taste is young, tight and spicy with notes of sweet lingonberries, red cherries, dried rosemary and warm tiles. Cool, refreshing tannins. A long, fine finish. This is great quality for the money.
90p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Pini, Poggio Dell´Elmo
This is a different kind of Rossese. The alcohol level is 15%, the highest I have ever seen on a bottle of Rossese. And it shows. The nose is big, hot and spicy with notes of cherry jam, burned herbs, licorice, warm tiles and scorched earth. There is depth also, but the warmth is too overpowering.
The taste is big, concentrated and warm with notes of ripe cherries, mulberries, raspberry jam, licorice and warm earth. Very long and warm. A fine cherry pip note in the finish. A good concentration but in the end a bit too warm.
81p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Bricco Arcagna, Terre Bianche
I loved the 2010 tasted last year, see below, so my hopes were high, even though the 2011 is a lesser vintage. But alas, the normale, above, was better. This gets some time in new wood and I think that the 2011 fruit didn´t really was up to par for that treatment.
The nose is big, upfront and sweet with notes of ripe lingonberries, raspberry licorice, mulberries and pan fried herbs. A high, concentrated nose. A touch of milk chocolate after some time in the glass.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of sweet red currants, lingonberries, warm earth and some dark fudge. The finish is long, intense and warm. The milk chocolate note also appears in the finish. A fine crafted wine but the 2010 was much better.
87p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore, Foresti
A medium big, warm, spicy nose with notes of mulberries, blueberry bushes, rose petals and some peppery scents. Very good. A fine balance.
The taste is tight, fresh and light bodied with notes of lingonberries, red peppers, licorice and some earthy traits. A fine peppery note in the finish. Very nice.
87p   (tasted 2013/07)

2012 Rossese di Dolceacqua Brae, Maccario Dringenberg
A fine, multi layered, warm nose with notes of sweet blueberries, mulberries, dried herbs, hard cherry candy and forest floor. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, intense and finely polished with notes of lingonberries, lightly sugared blueberries, licorice, dusty earth and warm herbs. Cool tannins. A medium long, fresh finish. A very nice mouth feel.
89p   (tasted 2013/07)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Posaú, Maccario Dringenberg
As with the Bricco Arcagna above, this was a minor disappointment compared to the 2010 tasted last year. That said, this is a really good wine. The nose is young, tight and intense with notes of sweet lingonberries, blueberry bushes, fresh herbs, warm earth and some crushed white pepper grains. A fine, lightly perfumed note emerges with air. Very good.
The taste is big, warm and concentrated with notes of lingonberries, red cherries, warm tiles and dried herbs, A very long finish with some steady tannins. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2013/07)

2012 Rossese di Dolceacqua, Caldi
I had heard good things about this producer but never tasted anything. But I will surely be on the lookout for more bottles in the future!
The nose is young, tight and multi layered with gorgeous notes of sweet lingonberries seasoned with crushed white peppars, forest floor, rosehips, rosemary bushes and a touch of fur (in a complex way). Very deep. A fine perfumed note emerges with air. Really fine.
The taste is young, intense and refined with lots of sweet lingonberries and additional notes of licorice, rosehips, dried herbs and forest floor. A very fine acidity. The finish is long and structured. This is packing character, structure and enjoyment. One of the better Rossese´s I have had. Can´t wait for the Superiore from 2012!
93p   (tasted 2013/08)

2011 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore, Cooperative F. Riviera Dei Fiori
A warm, somewhat four squared nose with notes of lingonberries, dry licorice, scorched earth and dried flowers. It becomes more structured with air but doesn´t have the depth of the better Rossese´s.
The taste is big, warm and a tad clumsy with notes of lingonberry jam, licorice, warm earth and dried flowers. The finish is medium long with a good warmth. I think that the not so good vintage of 2011 has had something to do with this showing.
80p   (tasted 2013/08

The Rossese´s below was tasted during our stay in Liguria, the summer of 2012:

2010 Rossese di Dolceacqua Bricco Arcagna, Terre Bianche
This beauty oozes up from the glass with lovely notes of sweet lingonberries, red currants, fresh herbs, wheat cereals and lost of minerals. Very, very good. There is a hint of chocolate, showing that this has spent some time in oak. This is good!
The taste is pure, intense and demanding with notes of lingonberries, dried strawberries, forest floor and lots of sweet minerals. A long, focused, refined finish. The tannins are noticeable in the end of the finish. This could use 3-5 years in the cellar but is impossible to resist today.
92p   (tasted 2012/07)

2011 Rossese de Dolceacqua, Enovalnervia
A young, upfront, light nose with notes of lingonberries, sloe berries, dried strawberries, dried herbs and gravel. Nice and easy going.
The taste is light, fresh and uncomplicated with notes of lingonberries, nlueberry bushes, almonds and gravel. A nice, friendly Rossese for early drinking.
84p   (tasted 2012/07)

2010 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Posaú, Maccario Dringenberg
These two cru´s from Dringenberg showed great and kept for several days in the opened bottle. The Posaú´s nose is deep, hedonistic and structured with notes of lingonberries, sweet/sour cherries, fresh herbs and road dust. This goes directly to the heart, it oozes charm.
The taste is pure, intense and headstrong with notes of lingonberry bushes, red currants, licorice and lots of fresh herbs. The finish is long and elegant. Great acidity. This is a stunner!
92p   (tasted 2012/08)

2010 Rossese di Dolceacqua Superiore Luvaira, Maccario Dringenberg
The Luvaira is, like Tenuta Anfosso´s Luvaira, a bit broader and warmer. The nose is deep, warm and pure with notes of blueberries, mulberries, licorice, old leather and a great spiciness. Very interesting and complex. Really fine.
The taste is tight, pure and warm with notes of red and black cherries, warm herbs, earth and minerals. The finish is long, intense and structured. Very earthy. Gotta love this!
91p   (tasted 2012/08)

Wednesday, 11 September 2013

Crayfish & Chardonnay

As I have written before, I think that Chardonnay is a great pairing with crayfish. This time I opened a bottle from Hamilton Russell. Info here.

2011 Hamilton Russell Vineayards Chardonnay
The nose is big, mighty and open with notes of lemoncello, ripe yellow pears, candied lemon peel, bonfire, galia melon and crushed rocks. Not the sleekest creature on earth but it has both big ripe fruit and a healthy dose of refinement. Very, very good.
When you take a sip you get a young, potent and structured wine in your mouth. The fruit is ripe and warm but there is a fine balance here and the acidity is high and cleans the mouth effectively. The finish is long and ends with a nice dry twist. Drinking great but I think it actually will get better with 2-3 years cellaring. And the pairing then - well, I would liked to have a touch more sleek Chardonnay to get that perfect pairing.
90p   (tasted 2013/09)

Monday, 9 September 2013

Lunch Tasting With Erwan Faiveley

I was invited the other day by Vinovativa to a tasting lunch with Erwin Faiveley. Of course I accepted!
It was very nice to meet Erwan, who has been in charge since 2007 when he took over after his father. There have been lots of changes since then, which I commented on last year when the wine maker Bernard Hervet visited Stockholm.
Faiveleys portfolio of wines are 80% Pinot and 20% Chardonnay. The majority of  grapes comes from their own land, but they buy about 15% a year. You can make out from the label if it´s bought grapes or their own - on their own it says Domaine Faiveley, the ones with bought grapes states Joseph Faiveley on the label, see pics below.
When asked, Erwan confess that the best bottle of wine he have ever had was a 1962 Chambertin from Drouhin. I shall be on the lookout! But the Faiveley´s also keep well, as this modest 1961 Mercurey is proof of.
Info here.

2011 Mercurey Blanc, Domaine Faiveley
A young, fresh and crispy nose with fine notes of green herbs, lemon peel, grass and crushed rocks. A little restrained at first but opened up nicely. Salivating. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and pure with notes of white currants, yellow tomatoes, steel and gravel. A very fine acidity. This performs really well. At 19 Euro, this is a bargain.
88p   (tasted 2013/09)

2011 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Joseph Faiveley
Even with a lot of coaxing, there is hard to get some aromas out of this wine. There is rocks and some earthy scents, and some steel, but that´s pretty much it. When I got back to it one hour later som notes of white currants had emerged, but this is one tight wine!
The taste is cool, pure and focused with a fine acidity and some hints of yellow apples, white currants and crushed rocks. Needs plenty of time.
86p   (tasted 2013/09)

2011 Meursault 1er Cru Blagny, Joseph Faiveley
A decadent, spicy, big nose with gorgeous notes of ripe red apples, lemon cream, dried summer flowers and cap gun smoke. Very deep and fine. A hint of expensive soap, in a good way. This I like!
The taste is tight, intense and young, with notes of sweet/sour lemons, dried apricots, lemon cream and sweet minerals. A long, satisfying finish. Very good acidity. This is really fine and I´m sure it will get even better with 4-6 years in the cellar.
92p   (tasted 2013/09)

2010 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Roy, Domaine Faiveley
The first of the reds has a fine young, earthy nose with notes of red currants, dried blood, dried blueberries and some fresh herbs. A bit barnyardy, in a good way.
The taste is young, tight and medium bodied with notes of red currants, dried raspberries, earth and iron. A good acidity. Medium long finish. This should benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.
87p   (tasted 2013/09)

2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Beaux Bruns, Joseph Faiveley
A wonderful, deep and sexy nose with notes of wild raspberries, forest floor, smoke, herbs and a touch of licorice. Complex and yummy.
The taste is more restrained than the hedonistic nose but there is lots of interest here also. Notes of red currants, raspberries, smoke and forest floor. The tannins are silky and fine. Drinking great but should get even better with 3-5 years cellaring.
90p   (tasted 2013/09)

2011 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers, Domaine Faiveley
A tighter, more rustic nose than the Chambolle-Musigny, but as nice in its way. Fine notes of lingonberries, blueberries, forest floor and a gorgeous blood & iron note. Some rosehips after a while. Very young.
The taste is young, tight and concentrated with notes of lingonberries, rosehips, dried herbs and the same earthy note as on the nose. The tannins show themselves in the medium long finish. This needs at least 6+ years in the cellar. Great stuff!
90p   (tasted 2013/09)

2011 Corton Clos des Cortons, Domaine Faiveley
What a nose! Deep, powerful and full of ripe raspberries, Christmas spices, cigarette ashes, a touch of dark chocolate and a lovely perfumed note. Very pure, very deep and very promising. Just beautiful.
The taste is young, tight and focused with gorgeous Pinot fruit and a stunning length, structure and refinement. Lovely notes of chocolate covered raspberries, blueberries, Cohiba cigar and forest floor. A wonderful texture. Still young of course, this behaves beautifully. But wait at least 8 years!
95p   (tasted 2013/09)

Sunday, 8 September 2013

Going From Strength to Strength - The Pouilly-Fuissé From Domaine Georges Burrier

Georges Burrier continues to produce a great drinking Chardonnay with aging potential for a song (20 Euro). The 2009 tasted here and the 2010 here.

2011 Pouilly-Fuissé, Domaine Georges Burrier
It needs a bit of time in the glass before lovely scents of white peaches, grapefruit, dry fudge, ripe tangerines and a touch of smoke emerges out of the glass. It opens up nicely and keeps going all night long, and even when it reaches room temperature it holds things together. Really fine.
The taste is full of yellow apples, almond paste, dried flowers and sweet minerals. The acidity is there to tighten things up in the finish. Long and fine. This is nicely put together. For drinking now and the coming 6+ years.
91p   (tasted 2013/09)

Friday, 6 September 2013

Divine Pours Divine Wines

I was invited to Divine´s trade tasting earlier this week and got to taste an array of fine wines. You get a little jaded after 30+ wines, so I didn´t taste their whole range. But the notes below are of the ones that I really liked, and a few others...
I give an approximate score, since I only spent one or two minutes with each wine.

It was a good start - the entire line up of Champagnes from Gosset! The NV Brut Excellence is pure and silky with a fine mousse and some bread and apple notes, very good (~87p). The NV Grande Réserve Brut is deeper, with more stony aromas and a fine lemon cream taste (~89p). I am usually most found of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes, and this time was no different, the NV Blanc de Blancs is gorgeous with notes of chalk, yellow apples and fudge with a long, lingering, racy taste (~92p).

Gosset have produced a great 2002 in the 2002 Celebris Extra Brut, with its elegant smoky aromas and tight, young, potent taste (~93p) . Needs at least 5+ years. I have very found memories if the 1990 Celebris. Continuing the vintage wines, the 2002 Grand Millesime is poured. It is more evolved and fatter in its structure with lots of ripe red apples and crushed rocks, very good (~90p).
The NV Grand Rosé Brut finishes the Gosset range. It has an elegant, cool wild strawberry and red currants nose with a fresh, salivating finish, lovely (~90p).

Magda then poured me an interesting white from Campania, the 2011 Fiano di Avellino, Donnachiara, which has a crispy, fresh, grassy nose paired with a chalky, long, pure finish (~88p). I really liked the 2010 Lynmar Chardonnay last time I tasted it, and it showed as well this time (~91p). The JT, M. Gassier from Roussanne and Grenache Blanc is a multi dimensional wine with lots of ripe peach fruit and a broad but pure and crisp taste with great acidity (~91p).

At the next table I met the very nice and friendly Hannah Gordon, all the way from New Zeeland, representing Craggy Range. She first poures their 2011 Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc which shows fine gooseberry and grassy aromas and a fine, slim, salivating taste (~88p). The following 2010 Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay has a low keyed nose with some nuts, fugde and yellow apples. The taste have some structure but also a bit low keyed (~84p). The next Chardonnay, on the other hand, is the real thing - 2007 Les Beaux Cailloux. I have tasted it before and today it behaves even better - a gorgeous bottle of stunning Chardonnay (~94p).

The 2010 Te Muna Pinot Noir offers up some warm, spicy Pinot fruit paired with a medium bodied taste with raspberries and christmas spices (~88p). The 2011 Aroha (meaning love and I´m loving it!) is made out of the best parcels of Pinot from the Te Muna vineyard. It has a deep, complex, thrilling nose with raspberries, smoke, licorice and spices. The taste is like velvet until the end when the acidity creeps up and cleans the mouth. This is a great Pinot (~93p)!

The 2011 Gimblett Gravels Te Kahu is a blend of predominantly Merlot with some C.S., C.F., Malbec tossed in. It is fruit forward and keeps things together but I find it somewhat bland (~84p). The big brother, in every sense of the word, the 2011 Sophia is lovely with its sweet black currant fruit and a dense, deep and concentrated taste, lovely stuff (~92p).
Finishing off is the two Syrah wines from Craggy - the 2010 Gimblett Gravels Syrah has 3% Viognier in the blend and has a warm, medium deep nose with notes of blueberries, crushed white peppers and a touch of pine. The taste is open for business with rich Syrah fruit and a fine, medium long finish (~88p). The 2011 Le Sol is a stunning hedonistic bottle of wine, with peppered raw meat, licorice, balsa wood and gorgeous earthy notes. Still young of course but even now it appeals to your cave man senses (~92p).

Moving on with some more Pinot - the 2009 Lynmar Russian River Pinot Noir is big and bold with lovely sweet raspberry fruit and a fine structure and refinement (~91p). The 2010 Melville Estate Pinot Noir is also big and bold but the fruit is a tad warmer and the finish a bit shorter, but make no mistake, it is a juicy, great drinking Pinot (~90p).
A new acquaintance is the 2010 Samsara Turner Pinot Noir, and what a wine! It combines the seductiveness of fully ripe Pinot with a gorgeously refined framework and structure for keeping. This is a beauty! Impossible to spit...(~96p). Ojai has in its 2010 Fe Ciega Pinot Noir created an elegant, cool Pinot with long lasting taste and great balance (~92p).
The 2012 Shed 6, Quartz Reef is too warm and too alcoholic for my taste. Lots of rich sweet fruit but the balance isn´t there (~80p).
Even more porty, denser and jammy is the 2010 Renaissance, Domaine de Cristia. Granted, there is a tight structure and you can feel that there have been much work put in to it, but maybe to much? The tannins are dry in the end of the finish. Time will tell...(~81p).

The Cabernet line up here is most impressive, the 2010 Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon is a straight forward Cabernet with nice black currant fruit and a long, warm taste with juicy tannins (~88p). Big brother 2010 Avalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has more muscles and show them as well. It is firmly built and shows massive tannins alongside impressive fruit (~91p).
The two Cabernets from Round Pond is, besides beautiful labels, two really fine wines. The 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon display gorgeous black currant fruit and a spicy, earthy character that is truly enjoyable (~90p). But the 2010 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon takes things to another level - complex notes of black currants, pencil shavings, grapthite and expensive leather oozes up from the glass, and the taste is concentrated, dense and magnificent (~94p).
What can I say about the 2010 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon other than - give me some! This is a world class Cabernet, albeit young of course, that radiated class, focus and hedonism. Every bolt and nut is in the exact place and this will become a truly magnificent wine 10-15 years along the line (~96p).

At my last table for the day, I met Alberto Passeri from La Gerla. I have in my Brunello project tasted a few of their Brunello´s and been very impressed - the 1985 Vigna gli Angeli & the 1990 plus the 1997 Vigna gli Angeli.
First up was the 2011 Rosso di Montalcino with its gorgeous, upfront nose full of sweet/sour cherries, licorice, violets and a touch of smoke. The taste is juicy, lively and just fun drinking, but shows a firm backbone in the finish. This is a must buy when it is released 1 October! (~90p). I really, really loved the 2007 Brunello, but I wan´t be able to feel the same for the new vintage. The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino shows a hot, barnyardy nose with lots of sweet cherry fruit but without the grip of the previous vintage. The taste is big and brawny with high alcohols, burly tannins and a long, warm finish that ends somewhat dry (~86p).

The next bottle was howevever, and what a way to finish!, a masterpiece - the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva gli Angeli is everything a Brunello should aspire to be - it has depth, complexity, an ethereal Sangiovese nose and a stunning combination of hedonism and structure - just a beautiful wine that I would love to drink over a whole evening (~95p).

Thanks to Divine for the invite!