Wednesday, 29 May 2013

The First Rosé of Summer

Almost a year ago, the 2011 of this wine really made me smile. When I saw the new vintage on the shelf I grabbed a bottle. But...

2012 Sancerre Les Baronnes Rosé, Henri Bourgeois
The nose is young, fresh and pure with notes of rhubarb, red currants, raspberry candy and a touch of white peppar. Nice, upfront and fine.
The taste on the other hand suffers from lack of juicy fruit; it has a rather course character with notes of unripe lingonberries, red currants and a touch of gravel. It ends dry with a astringent note. With a warm pasta salad it fears well, but on its own its to narrow. The 2011 vintage was much better.
84p   (tasted 2013/05)

Monday, 27 May 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XXVI

What to open with Sunday dinner? The roast is in the oven, the Madeira sauce is simmering and the root vegetables are ready to join the roast.
Well, the Brunello project is almost coming to an end, only a few chapters left, and I have some odd bottles left, among them these two. The Consorzio gives both 1979 and 1980 a 4 star rating.

Fattoria dei Barbi is one of the most historic estates in Montalcino. The Colombini family acquired it in 1790. It is one of the largest estates in Brunello, consisting of 338 hectares, of which 42 hectares is Brunello. Their first Brunello vintage was the 1892, sadly I haven´t got hold of that one...:-) The only previous vintage I have tasted from Barbi was the 1997 Riserva. More info here.

CastelGiocondo is the second largest Brunello producer with 152 hectares devoted to Brunello. The Frescobaldi´s bought the estate in 1989, so this bottle was made by the previous owners, a group of European investors that bought the estate in the 70´s and the 1975 was their first vintage. The estate itself is (also) one of Montalcino´s most historic ones, dating from 1100. I have the 1975 as well, will be back with a note on that one soon. Previous tasted vintages have been the 1994 & 2006, the 1995 and the 1997. More info here.

1980 Brunello di Montalcino, Fattoria dei Barbi
This opens a tad shy and restrained with some dusty red, mature fruit. But things really happens with a couple of hours in a decanter. The fruit flesh out into lingonberries and red currants with a fine dried up sweetness to them, with additional aromas of dry leather, gravel, licorice and some undergrowth. Fully mature with a fine, mellow character.
The taste is mature, dry and interesting with notes of dried rosehips, lingonberries, road dust and cigarette ashes. As with the nose, it becomes better with air. But there is a dry note in the end that tells me that this should have been drunk some 10 years ago. With the food it behaves nicely, and the nose is fine, but on its own it is a tad to dry on the palate.
86p   (tasted 2013/05)

1979 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, CastelGiocondo
Just wow! I really didn´t expect greatness from any of these two bottles, just hoping that they would fair well with the sunday steak. But from the get go until the last drop this bottle behaved brilliantly!
The nose oozes up from the glass with gorgeous aromas of muscovadosprinkled cherries, dried flowers, licorice, moist mushrooms, violet pastilles, sweet cranberries and lots of rosehips. The sweetness of the fruit is amazing given that this is 34 years old. Given this blind, I would have guessed it to be from 1990. Just stunning!
The taste is as fresh as the nose, with a lovely purity, freshness and bucketfuls of sweet red and black cherries. Notes of licorice, violet pastilles, rosehip powder, sugared coffee and lots and lots of fresh mushrooms. There is some maturity here but this is amazingly fresh for its age. A long, intense finish with a beautiful creamy structure. Really, really fine. And I bought this for 25 Euro...:-)
94p   (tasted 2013/05)

Sunday, 26 May 2013

A Sunday Luncheon

Sunday last week - me and C were invited to Sunday lunch at Å & N´s place - as usual, a wonderful get together - great wines, a kick ass rabbit pasta and table tennis! :-)
All wines tasted double blind.

2001 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese, Robert Weil
The sipping wine, whilst playing table tennis mind you, was this beauty. A open, pure, deep and gorgeous nose with notes of yellow pears, lemon peel, chives, rubber and lots of sweet minerals. A lovely sweetness. Deep and elegant. Really fine.
The taste is seamless, pure and racy with beautiful yellow fruit, high acidity and a minute long finish. Fine notes of dry lemoncello, melon, yellow pears and slate. Very, very fine. Starts of almost semi sweet but ends bone dry after the long finish has ended. A lovely wine.
93p   (tasted 2013/05)

2009 Guru, Wine & Soul
This Portuguese beauty is made of the local grapes Viosinho, Rabigato, Codega and Gouveio - not the ones I usually drink, but this bottle could make me do that more. The nose is young, fresh and pure with lots of stony aromas with some additional notes of lime peel, licorice, chlorophyll (a fine green note) and a touch of detergent (in a complex way). Very fine.
The taste is young, fresh and gulpable with notes of lemon and lime peel, green apples, crushed rocks and a salty, tangy note that is very refreshing. A medium long, fresh finish. A very interesting wine.
Info here.
90p   (tasted 2013/05)

2004 Camarcanda, Gaja
A lovely warm, semi mature, herbal nose with notes of red and black currants, coffee powder, autumn leaves and a fine green note, just like ripe Cabernet Franc. Very, very good. There is a delicious green sweetness to the fruit, if that make any sense?
The taste is tight, semi broad and with a hint of maturity. Fine notes of ripe red and black currants, burning autumn leaves, cold coffee and hard cherry candy. Lovely integrated tannins. A long, warm finish that ends dry. Very, very good. Should hit its peak in 3-5 years.
Made out of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc.
91p   (tasted 2013/05)

2001 Barolo Arborina laFoia, Marco Curto
Fun! A new Barolo producer for me. And one that has land in that hallowed place on earth that is Arborina. Marco Curto and Elio Altare is obviously cousins. The nose is a Nebbiolo lovers dream - gorgeous notes of lingonberries, rosehips, licorice, cranberries, rose petals and a whole mushroom forest. Very flowery. Deep and intoxicating. This is really fine. Ethereal. And with a hint of maturity.
The taste is tighter than the nose leads on, with strapping tannins supporting the fresh fruit in shape of lingonberries, red currants and rosehips. In the very long finish there are notes of licorice, cigarette ashes and dusty earth. A very fine acidity. This is a delicious bottle of wine, I would love to taste more bottles from this producer.
93p   (tasted 2013/05)

Thursday, 23 May 2013

2007 Barbera d´Alba Scarrone, Vietti

I opened this with Wednesday dinner - grilled chicken fillets and grilled mixed vegetables and a cold herb sauce. I´m usually very found of the Scarrone from Vietti, and the Scarrone Vigna Vecchia even more so, but this bottle didn´t get me going like it use to. This was my first taste of the 2007, and it didn´t leave me wanting more.

2007 Barbera d´Alba Scarrone, Vietti
An upfront, young, pushy nose with notes of cherry jam, raspberry chocolate truffles, licorice, sherry vinegar, warm earth and a touch of banana peel. In short, all over the place. There is some depth here but the overall impression is of a unbalanced wine. Maybe it will calm down with some more age?
The taste is tighter and leaner than the nose, with notes of ripe raspberries, licorice, sun warm tiles and some warm herbs. The finish is medium long and warm. Nothing wrong with some warmth in your Barbera, but I expect more structure and fresh acidity from Vietti. A good wine but a bit of a let down all the same.
84p   (tasted 2013/05)

Monday, 20 May 2013

A Barbeque With Some Decent Wines...

When M & J invites you to dinner you know you will drink great wines, and this night was no exception. Thanks!

All wines served blind, except for the Port at the end. There was some hints beforehand of a Brunello theme, but knowing M I always keep an open mind when the wines are poured...:-)

2008 Lower Rim Chardonnay, Stonestreet
This beaty opens a bit shy with notes of crisp pears, cold butter and some crushed rocks. But when it gets some air and warmth it unfolds like a peacock tail with notes of summer flowers, fudge, melon and cap gun smoke. Very intense and fine.
The taste is big, ripe, and yet elegant with buttery fruit and a lovely refreshing acidity. In the long finish there are notes of lemon cream, butter ccokies and ripe melon. Mouthfilling in the best sense of the word. As good as some eight months ago.
94p   (tasted 2013/05)

2010 Booker White
This should, according to M, have been a treat, but there was something wrong with this bottle. The wine was cloudy and the fruit was compressed and weird.
No rating   (tasted 2013/05)

2003 Riesling Spätlese, Robert Weil
This perennial favourite was not as great as it can be, but there was no complaining at the table over its elegant nose with notes of white currants, lemon peel, spices and a touch of rubber.
The taste is tight, concentrated and very long with notes of peach, crushed slate, lemon peel and warm grass. Again, really fine, but this bottle wasn´t as ethereal as it has been in the past.
92p   (tasted 2013/05)

2002 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff
Can there be such a thing as too beautiful, too perfect, too pure? Well, maybe this bottle. Every tiny molecule is in the right place, it oozes elegance, purity and structure. And yet, I find it lacking somewhat in personality. Don´t get me wrong, this is some really classy Riesling in the glass, but there is just something about it.
Both the nose and taste is pure, a tad restrained with lots of wet rocks, white flowers, white currants, minerals, minerals and minerals. A gorgeous wine, maybe a bit much so...
92p   (tasted 2013/05)

1997 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso, Ciacci Piccolomini d´Aragona
A deep, fine, mature nose with mulberries, cherry jam, pipe tobacco and some moist undergrowth. A very fine maturity. Lovely sweet fruit. With air there are a fine note of black tea.
The taste is deep, tight and intense with notes of red and black cherries, violet, gravel and some dusty cocoa notes. The finish is long, warm and caressing. As with previous tasted vintages, the Pianrosso is a fine bottle of Brunello.
92p   (tasted 2013/05)

2006 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola, Salvioni
I can just refer to my previous note on this stunning wine. On this night it was a bit more shut down, but still expressed (future) greatness.
94p   (tasted 2013/05)

2000 Grandes Añadas, Artadi
And then we were thrown a curve ball...The nose is medium deep and nice with notes of red cherries, cranberries, leather, dry tobacco and a touch of dog fur. Has a nice warmth. Very good.
The taste is tight, seedy and more impressive than the nose with lots of sweet, juicy cherries and notes of tobacco, leather and earth. The finish is long, broad and fine. I did not peg this as an Spaniard...
89p   (tasted 2013/05)

2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaione
A Brunello producer I have been looking forward to taste - and what a wine! A cool, elegant and a touch restrained nose with fine notes of cherry pips, tobacco, gravel, violets and a fine smoky note. Very poised and full of finesse. Evolved beautifully in the glass. Real class.
The taste is young, tight and seedy with notes of rosehips, violets, hard cherry candy and cigarette ashes. There are some big tannins here but they are neatly polished. The finish goes on and on and on. I would love to taste more vintages from this producer!
95p   (tasted 2013/05)

1996 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, Domenico Clerico
After we put our noses in the glass when this was poured, we immediately shouted "we are home"!! A beautiful Nebbiolo nose with notes of lingonberries, mushrooms, rose petals, bay leaves and a touch of freshly grounded coffee. This has depth, charm and grace. Still young but there is some evolvement here. 
The taste is tighter with lots of ripe red fruit and notes of mushrooms, rosehips, leather and bay leaves. The tannins are still on the perky side and come through in the finish. Very, very fine and should evolve gracefully over the next 6-8 years.
93p   (tasted 2013/05)

1999 Barolo Percristina, Domenico Clerico
Aaaaaaaah, what a stunning wine! I just love the Percristina from Clerico. Again and again it proves to be a truly world class wine. As good as this is though, it doesn´t reach the heights of the 1996...
The nose is elegant, finely tuned, deep and just stunning with gorgeous aromas of sweet lingonberries, wet asphalt, porcini, licorice and rose bushes en masse! So, so, so fine.
The taste is tight, pure and complex with notes of red cherries, lingonberries, rosehips, licorice and a touch of dark chocolate. The tannins take a firm grip around your tongue in the finish, which goes of forever it seems. Stunning juice!
97p   (tasted 2013/05)

1997 Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali, Livio Sassetti
This bottle was almost as good as the one opened two months ago and behaved in the same manner. A very fine bottle of wine.
94p   (tasted 2013/05)

1990 Vouvray Moelleux 1er Trie Clos du Bourg, Huet
This, on the other hand, outperformed a bottle opened by M last September. An intensity of the charts, a purity that need to be tasted to believed and a length that could be counted in several minutes. But it is no 1990 Le Mont... :-) Just...
99p   (tasted 2013/05)

1995 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port
A deep, sweet, hedonistic nose with notes of figs, pan fried nuts, milk chocolate, green raisins and some moist undergrowth. Upfront and fine, although not that deep.
The taste is big, sweet and warm with notes of raisins, assorted nuts and lots of chocolate wafers. Some alcohol warmth in the end. Very good.
88p   (tasted 2013/05)

And, unfortunately, two corked wines - the 1996 Cuvée el Campanario, Abadia Retuerta and 1997 Finca Dofi, Alvaro Palacios - too bad!

Saturday, 18 May 2013

A Bottle of Bubbly - NV Leclerc Briant Les Crayères Brut

Tired after a great barbeque dinner yesterday at M & J (with some stunning wines from Stonestreet, Dönnhoff, Salvioni, Cerbaione, Clerico, Huet and coming soon) I needed something to pick me up this evening, and a bottle of Champagne is the perfect drink too start with!
What to open next...?

NV Leclerc Briant Les Crayères Brut
This has a open, extrovert, fine nose with lots of ripe yellow apples, peaches, some toast, chalk and lots of sweet minerals. Not that deep but very upfront and yummy.
The taste is fresh, fine and gulpable with fine notes of yellow and red apples, dry fudge, chalk, oyster shells and some grassy notes. The finish is medium long, fresh and crispy. A very nice drinking Champagne. I´m back!
88p   (tasted 2013/05)

Thursday, 16 May 2013

A Big Chunk of Meat & a Bottle of Shiraz

I can´t help it. It has to be primal. A big piece of juicy meat, a bottle of hearty Shiraz - and my mouth just salivate. Lots of saliva. Lots of it. I just want to take a big bite of that prime meat and swallow it down with a big mouthful of Shiraz. Sometimes, life is easy...
Info here.

2008 The Dead Arm Shiraz, d´Arenberg
The first vintage I tasted of the Dead Arm was the 1998 in 2002 and I just loved it! I have tried to follow this wine through the vintages, but I guess I have missed some during the years.
But with a grilled slice of meat I thought I would open a bottle.
The nose is deep, tight and concentrated with gorgeous notes of blackberries, blueberries, hyacinths, smoked meat and what a former German chancellor would have called "blood & iron". Very, very good. Still very young.
The taste is upfront, massive and sweet with loads of ripe blueberries, sweet flowers, dark chocolate and some peppery, meaty notes. The finish goes on for long and are filled with soft, juicy tannins. This should evolve nicely with some years in the cellar, but with a mouthful of beef, this is impossible to resist today. The Viking heritage comes to life... Again, sometimes life is easy...
92p   (tasted 2013/05)

Wednesday, 15 May 2013

A Delectable Blauburgunder From Weingut Bründlmayer

At a tasting lunch a few weeks back this Pinot surprised me with its charm and grace. I bought some to have a go at it under a more controlled environment...

2008 Langenloiser Dechant Blauburgunder , Weingut Bründlmayer
This opens with a bit of funky Pinot feeling, but soon turns into a pure, charming, fresh nose with notes of ripe lingonberries, fresh herbs, balsa wood, dried raspberries and a touch of chocolate mousse. Very, very good. A very fine herbal note. I would have guessed a Volnay on this one blind.
The taste is fresh, tight and juicy with lots of lingonberries and raspberries combined with notes of warm herbs, blueberry bushes and some cocoa notes in the finish. The acidity is very fine and cleans the palate effectively. This is really fine. For 19 Euro, this is a steal.
91p   (tasted 2013/04)

It was another great lunch, courtesy of VinUnic. The wines was presented by Thomas Klinger, winemaker at the estate, with great charm and humour. Info here.

Other highlights were: The NV Brut Rosé which is a deliciously spicy bubbly with lots of strawberries, cinnamon and smoke on the nose and a fine, elegant, medium long finish (89p).
Among the Grüner´s the 2008 Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm was the shining star with its elegant notes of grilled lemons, white peppar, summer flowers and gravel. The taste is beautifully taut and impressive with purity, class and gorgeous fruit (92p).
Two of the Riesling was truly fine, the 2011 and the 2004 Heiligeniten Lyra Riesling. The 2011 is young, fresh and full of green notes and a delicious spicy note. The taste is tight, racy and fresh with notes of pears, lemons and lots of minerals (90p). The 2004 has matured in a great fashion, with its deep, refined nose with notes of ripe pears, chalk, petrol and pine nuts. The taste is tight, laser focused and intense with stunning fruit and an upright structure, more for the masochist than the hedonist, and I love it! (93p).



Sunday, 12 May 2013

In Search of Brunello di Montalcino´s Soul - Chapter XXV

Yesterday I opened these two late arrivals. A couple of weeks ago we tasted a bunch of 97 Brunello´s, and it would have been fun comparing these two with the others. But there were no problem drinking them on their own...

1997 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna gli Angeli, La Gerla
This comes from a one hectare single vineyard. It seems though that they have stopped making this bottling, according to La Gerla´s website there is now only the ordinary Brunello and the Riserva gli Angeli, instead of previously three bottling of Brunello.
The nose is wide open, sweet, decadent and fantastic, with notes of sour/sweet cherries, raspberry licorice, pipe tobacco, undergrowth, cherry liqueur and old leather. A really exuberant nose. Very deep and fine.
The taste is big and steady with layers upon layers of juicy, sweet cherries and notes of licorice, mushroom forest, violets, tobacco and a small gravel pit in the end of the taste. Big, chewable tannins. A long, long, sweet finish. This is drinking perfectly now, and will surely keep for 8+ years, but will it get any better? I doubt it.
93p   (tasted 2013/05)

1997 Brunello di Montalcino Cerbaiola, Salvioni
I surrender! There is nothing else to do in front of this (almost) perfect specimen. I felt though that this was coming, the previous vintages tasted - the 1993 (stunningly good but not a perfect vintage), the 2004 and the 2006 (two great bottles but still very young) - have somehow whispered to me - "wait until you get a mature bottle from a great vintage". And here it is.
The nose is bottomless deep, perfectly balanced, tight and elegant, with stunning notes of ripe cherries, very expensive tobacco, even more expensive leather, dried flowers, viol pastilles, a Tuscan gravel road and a gorgeous perfumed note. You could sit and sniff this all night long. Ethereal in the true sense of the word.
The taste is a poster child for the proverbial "an iron fist in a velvet glove". First you notice the velvety, sweet, yummy fruit, the notes of ripe cherries, dried strawberries, viol pastilles, hard cherry candy and the sweet tobacco. But then the finely polished tannins creep up from behind and lends support and structure. They don´t take over, they just balance the taste in a perfect manner. The finish is over a minute long and goes from strength to strength all night long. Very, very aristocratic. Has begun to mature but I would say that this is 4-6 years (at least) from its peak. Best wine so far this year, a privilege to drink.
98p   (tasted 2013/05)


Thursday, 9 May 2013

Then & Now - 1985 & 2007 Taurasi, Mastroberardino

As I mentioned in a previous post Aglianico is often a hit or miss with me. This evening it was time to taste the Bonus Pater Familias of Aglianico (in 1985 there was only 2-3 producers of Taurasi), the Taurasi from Mastroberardino. It was a long time since I tasted some vintages of Taurasi, though I remember tasting the 1991 from Mastroberardino a few years back that was very good.
I recently got an offer for the famous 1968 Riserva and while tempted the price tag was a bit steep...

It is interesting that in all my wine books that cover Italy, Aglianico is referred to have "Greek origins", even Jancis Robinsons The Wine Drinker´s Guide to Grape Varieties from 1986.
But reading the newly published tome from Jancis Robinson et al - Wine Grapes - a new truth is revealed:
"Neither linguistic nor genetic evidence supports a Greek erymology and origin for Aglianico. Therefore, it seems most likely that Aglianico is an ancient grape from southers Italy."

Info here. And two articels, one here and the other here, from the same tasting where, among others, the 1985 was tasted.

Well, time to open the 1985 and the 22 year younger 2007!

1985 Taurasi, Mastroberardino
The last vintage where this wine was called only Taurasi. Starting with the 1986 vintage this wine is called Radici Taurasi, as below, and is made from grapes sourced from three different areas.
The cork broked and the first scent was of a wine over the hill....too bad I thought....but with air it came alive with notes of lingonberries, dried mushrooms, violets, dry resin and animal notes. Old style, but very good. Writing this, 4 hours after pulling the cork, it goes from strength to strength. This actually reminds me of an old Barolo.
The taste is mature, tight and restrained with notes of dried rasberries, lingonberry bushes, mushrooms, old fur and some still tough tannins. Deep and fine. With a creamy potato gratin and some grilled meat it behaved perfectly, but on its own it is a tad four squared, although there is layers of complexity here. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2013/05)

2007 Radici Taurasi, Mastroberardino
22 years younger, and it shows. A very ripe, concentrated and upfront nose with notes of ripe blueberries, dark chocolate, bakelite and a warm herbal scent. A lot of warmth. Medium deep.
The taste is big, tight and concentrated with notes of sweet blueberries, violet pastills, moist earth and a long, warm finish. To be honest, the middle taste is a bit thin, but other than that this is a big, juicy, sweet mouthful. Maybe I will have to wait 22 years for the complexity to show? This is 14 % alcohol compared to the 1985 which is 12%.
85p   (tasted 2013/05)

Tuesday, 7 May 2013

Dinner At Wedholms Fisk

A couple of weeks ago me and my better half went to dinner at Wedholms, the best fish restaurant in Stockholm and probably in all of Sweden. The ccoking is very classic, the portions are big and focus on the fish at hand, not the 10+ gadgets you can get on the plate in other places (even though that can be fun at times...).

With some scallops, grilled asparagus and a parmigiano reggiano sauce I had a glass of
NV Brut Expérience Blanc de Blancs, André Jacquart
A fresh, cool, nice nose with notes of green apples, chalk, fresh herbs and a touch of cap gun smoke. A nice sweetness to the fruit. Elegant and fine. More buttery notes emerge with air.
The taste is finely tuned with lots of chalk and notes of green apple sorbet, melon, lemon cream and some matchbox aromas. The finish is medium long and it ends dry and very delicious. Really fine.
91p   (tasted 2013/04)

The main course was a giant piece of grilled monkfish with a creamy truffle risotto - just stunning! I thought that this bottle of Burgundy would fit nicely with it, and guess what, I was right! :-)
2008 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes, Jean Noël Gagnard
A deep, beautiful, salty nose with notes of cold butter, white peach, lemon cream, a touch of bonfire in the distance and some dill notes. A deep stony aroma comes forward with air. Complex and utterly magnificient. A touch of maturity, although this has long to go.
The taste is tight, pure and concentrated with notes of butter fried nuts, warm herbs, ripe peaches, lemon cream, licorice and sweet summer flowers. A very fine acidity. The finish is very long, pure and aristocratic. This is for drinking now and the coming 8+ years. Gorgeous stuff!
93p   (tasted 2013/04)

Monday, 6 May 2013

A Nice Refreshment - 2011 Lolik, Manfredi Guccione

Home after a short vacation, and this being the really first warm day this spring.....I needed some refreshment.
And this Trebbiano from Sicily did its work.
4000 bottles made, more info here.
Bought from Terra del Vino for 18 Euro.

2011 Lolik, Manfredi Guccione
A light, fresh, pure nose with notes of ripe lemons, dried honey, white raisins and some sage. Medium deep. Has a dry sweetness to it. A hint of petrol/oil. Very good.
The taste is fine, rather elegant and with notes of warm lemons, dried fruits, gravel and sage. A fine oily feeling in the mouth. Medium long and ends dry. Not heaps of complexity but sipping this in the sun after work is very rewarding.
86p   (tasted 2013/05)

Saturday, 4 May 2013

Barolo On The Road - 2004 Pie Rupestris, Cappellano

The last wine of this short mini holiday in the south of Sweden. And what a way to finish - the youngest and freshest of them all!

2004 Barolo Pie Rupestris, Cappellano
A completely riveting and fascinating nose with lovely notes of sweet lingonberries, warm rosehips, fresh mushrooms, some undergrowth and a touch of milk chocolate. After some time a lovely aroma of warm rosemary emerges. Really deep and fine. Soooooo fine. Ethereal.
The taste is tight, young and pure with notes of lingonberry bushes, cherry pips, licorice and an elegant tobacco note. The finish goes on for a minute and leaves an impression of class, elegance and substance. This is what real Barolo drinking is all about. Stunning stuff, but wait another 5-8 years. please. Just gorgeous.
Since the late Theobaldo didn´t want his wines to be scored, I never do (but this one would have received a high score...:-))
No rating   (tasted 2013/05)

Barolo On The Road - 1998 Brunate, Vietti

Me and my better half is on a short vacation in the souh of Sweden, and after some salivating posts like these -
I just had to bring some Barolo with me. First evening, a perennial favourite, the

1998 Barolo Brunate, Vietti
The nose opens a bit shy but with some air it evolves into a magnificent semi mature Barolo - full of dried cherries, mushrooms - both dried and fresh, licorice, rosehips, autumn leaves and a touch of truffels. Ethereal in the try sense of the word. Beautiful.
The taste is tighter and less mature than the nose with lovely notes of ripe cherries, licorice, veal stock and a hint of milk chocolate. The finish is long, elegant and fresh. Will surely evolve some more in the coming 5+ years, but this is impossible to resist today.
95p   (tasted 2013/04)

Barolo On The Road - 1993 Normale, Gianfranco Alessandria

This evening, after a whole day of art galleries and a long walk in the woods, it was time for some food - and a pasta with a mushrooms sauce fit perfectly with this mature Barolo.

1993 Barolo, Gianfranco Alessandria
A lovingly mature, deep and upfront nose with notes of muscovado sugar dusted cherries, rosehips, autumn leaves, old expensive leather and a touch of menthol. A very fine maturity. Some chocolate mousse aromas. Ready now.
The taste is more tight, but mature and round with notes of sweet/sour cherries, dried mushrooms, rosehips, licorice and dark chocolate. A medium long, dry finish with some sturdy tannins that needs the cream in the pasta sauce. A fine mature Barolo.
89p   (tasted 2013/05)

Barolo On The Road - 2001 Pressenda, Marziano Abbona

Until 2006 I hadn't tasted anything from Abbona, but during a visit to Piedmonte a visit to Aldo Conterno was canceled and we called Abbona who greated us with generosity and charm. We got to meet the whole family, tasted all the wines and left with the nicest send of gift from any winemaker ever... :-) And they make great wine! Tonight I'm opening

2001 Barolo Pressenda, Marziano Abbona
The nose is deep, intoxicating and fresh with notes of ripe cherries, rosehips, chocolate wafers, and lots and lots of rose bushes. A very fine sweetness. Some animal notes and moist earth emerges with air. Chocolate covered rasberries. Very ripe and fine.
The taste is big and steady with buckets full of ripe cherries with some licorice, rosehips and rose petals mixed in. The finish is long, warm and juicy with a yummy note of chocolate truffels. Long and velvety. There are some perky tannins there also but the sweet fruit covers them nicely. Give it another 5+ years for greatness.
91p   (tasted 2013/05)

Barolo On The Road - 1996 Cascina Francia, Giacomo Conterno

Friday evening, and with an array of Italian antipasti - truffle salami, rosemary ham, finocchio, and Serrano - oops, a Spanish ham, but oh so wonderful when aged properly, it was time to bring out the big gun...

1996 Barolo Cascina Francia, Giacomo Conterno
The nose is a sheer dream with gorgeous notes of red cherries, dried mushrooms, autumn leaves, dried strawberries, expensive tobacco and some pine forest aromas. Sooo deep and utterly enchanting. This is what dreams are made of.
The taste is tight, elegant and powerful with lots and lots of rose petals, rosehips, dried mushrooms, cherry pips, licorice and autumn leaves. The finish goes on forever and there is some still young tannins making there mark in the end of the finish. In 8-10 years this will be flirting with perfection.
97p   (tasted 2013/05)