Saturday, 23 May 2015

Exploring The Forgotten Side Of Bordeaux - Chapter V


Chapter no V focus on two bottles from the fine 1996 vintage. I hope that the bottle of 96 Carbonnieux that Vinosapien won will turn out better than this one.


1996 Château Carbonnieux
A big, mature, spicy nose with notes of lanolin, dried peaches, glue and bees wax. A rather dense nose. Fully mature. A hint of wall to wall carpet.
The taste is also dense but fresher than the nose with notes of dried apriocts, rubber, stale nuts and dried flowers. A long, warm, structured finish with a fairly high acidity. A wouldn´t keep bottles of this for much longer.
82p   (tasted 2015/05)


1996 Château Smith Haut Lafitte
A mature, distinct, deep nose with notes of dried apricots, wet suit, rose water and a touch of saffron. Very interesting and layered. Evolves nicely in the glass. Some vanilla ice cream after a wile. Very good.
The taste is full bodied and creamy with notes of dried apricots, flower water, lanolin, cold red tea and dry grass. Long and fine with a perfect dryness. Really good. Probably fully mature but there is no hurry to drink any remaining bottles.
91p   (tasted 2015/05)

Thursday, 21 May 2015

Just Bought


Yesterday a parcel arrived - a bottle of 1952 Barolo from Cappellano, one of my favourite producers of Barolo. Looking forward to a massive Cappellano vertical someday, between the members of Barolo Boys we have 25+ vintages...:-)




Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Two More 1987 Brunello´s


Some time ago I came across a parcel of various 1987 Brunello Montalcino´s and they have behaved very well, despite their 28 years beneath the cork. Here are two more.

1987 Brunello di Montalcino Canalicchio di Sotto, Lambardi
A warm, meaty, mature nose with notes of dried cherries, liquorice, violet, bonfire and some dog fur. A bit soft around the edges. Fully mature.
The taste is warm, mature and dry with notes of dried cherries, dry chocolate, asphalt and violets. A medium long finish and is a bit hollow in the middle. A touch over the hill.
78p   (tasted 2015/05)


1987 Brunello di Montalcino La Fortuna, Gino e Gioberto Zannoni
A open, deep, sweet nose with notes of ripe black cherries, raspberry liquorice, old expensive leather, sweet thyme and some smoky scents. Very, very good. Still very much alive and kicking. A Lovely sweet fruit.
The taste is deep, mature and concentrated with notes of red and black cherries, leather, damp earth and sugared coffee. A long, warm, mature finish. This is fully mature and drinking nicely.
89p   (tasted 2015/05)

Some earlier Brunello 87´s:
La Chiesa di S. Restituta
Caprili and Pertimali
Conti Costanti


Sunday, 17 May 2015

Some New Releases From Divine

Last week, I was able to taste some new releases at the office of Divine.

2014 Posidoria Rosé, Sumarroca
This Tempranillo rosé has a attractive, light nose with notes of wild strawberries, gravel and dry biscuits.
The taste is light, fresh and juicy with notes of lingonberries, wild strawberries and gravel. Fine. Would work well with an array of summer sallads.
85p   (tasted 2015/05)



2014 Roero Arneis Villata, Terredavino
I drink Arneis all to seldom, because when I do, I always think so... This shows a cool, herbal, fresh nose with notes of melon, lemon peel and sand.
The taste is young and tight with fresh lemon  and melon fruit and additional notes of gravel and dry herbs. Very good.
87p   (tasted 2015/05)

2014 El Gallito Merlot, Bodegas Isidro Milagro
This inexpensive, correct Merlot shows a light, berry nose with some warm herbs. Good.
The taste is light and fresh with notes of chocolate, plums and herbs. Well made.
83p   (tasted 2015/05)



2013 Barbera d´Asti Rosso Fuoco, Terredavino
The first Barbera from Terredavivo displays a straight forward, fine, dry nose with notes of almost ripe raspberries, liquorice, earth and dried flowers. Very good.
The taste is tight and earthy with fine cherry fruit, road dust and liquorice. Needs food, a bit angular on its own. A fine earthy note. Angular or not, I like it.
85p   (tasted 2015/05)

2013 Open Now, Domain Hegarty Chamans
This has a open (!), interesting nose with a funky character and notes of dry chocolate, plums, peppers and a some barnyard scents. Even a touch volatile. Very good.
The taste is young and tight with a more "normal" peppery lingonberry- and blueberry fruit and some forest floor notes. A fine dryness in the finish. This is good!
89p   (tasted 2015/05)



2013 Domaine de Fondreche
A perennial favourite producer of mine. From 2013 there is no more Cuvée Fayard or Nadal, but this blend instead. Not a move to my liking if this vintage is representative. Not that it is bad, far from it, but I feel it more stream like made. Well, future vintages will tell.
The nose of the 2013 is big, open and spicy with notes of sweet blueberries, blackberries, meat stock and some smoke. Very good. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is young, focused and caressing with notes of blueberry pie, pine resin, meat and flowers. A long, warm finish. Will surely improve with 2-4 years in the cellar.
88p   (tasted 2015/05)

2012 Barbera d´Asti La Luna e I Falò, Terredavino
The second Barbera from Terredavino is a beauty. The nose is all about ripe, salivating cherry aromas alongside notes of damp forest floor, plums, liquorice and some chocolate. Very, very good.
The taste is young, concentrated and fresh with notes of cherry liquor, plums, damp earth and dried flowers. Long and focused. A bargain for 19 Euro. This will go into the cellar.
91p   (tasted 2015/05)



2013 Malbec, Achaval Ferrer
Me and Malbec is not an item to be. Except for some old Catena versions, I never really get a higher pulse when tasting Malbec. This one has a warm, fairly deep nose with notes of smoky plums, hot spices and that refinery scent that I associate with Malbec.
The taste is warm and seedy with sweet black fruits, scorched earth, leather and diesel oil. Long and warm. It is solid made but I don´t like it. Others may.
81p   (tasted 2015/05)

2012 La Falaise, Château de la Négly
Also a perpetual favourite of mine, Château de la Negly seems to produce fine wines in every vintage. The 2012 La Falaise sports a deep, complex nose with notes of ripe blueberries, cherry liquor, damp earth, lavender and dark chocolate. Very deep and fine.
The taste is wilful and tight with dark, spicy blueberries paired with notes of chocolate covered black cherries, black pepper, forest floor and violets. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2015/05)



2012 Tous les Jours, Andrew Murray
A fine, open, cool nose with notes of freshly crushed white peppers, blueberries, matchbox, anise and earth. A very fine, elegant nose with a laid back character. Very, very good.
The taste is young, seedy and fine with notes of peppered blu- and blackberries, gravel, thyme and liquorice. A long, structured finish. This is a fine wine, which will be even better in 3-5 years time.
91p   (tasted 2015/05)

2012 Stock Syrah, Sine Qua Non
My first word in my tasting book is a profanity so I will spare you that, but I will say - holy moly! This is goood! The nose is bottomless deep and hauntingly beautiful with masses and masses of violets, raspberry liquorice, black peppers, expensive leather and some pine aromas. Very, very deep and complex. Just great!
The taste is high toned, intense and brilliant with notes of ripe, ripe blackberries, violets, dark chocolate, leather and that Maillard taste of a peppered and fried steak. Stunning. And very primary yet, will evolve for decades. Gotta love it.
97p   (2015/05)



2011 Gold Series No 1 Syrah, Lillian
A year older California Syrah, and a very different character. The nose is big and open with notes of spicy blueberries, bonfire, matchbox, meat stock and raspberry coulis. Very, very deep and backboned.
The taste is intense and tight with notes of sweet blueberries, liquorice, dark chocolate, balsa wood and lots and lots of steady tannins in the long, long finish. More structured and backward than the SQN above. Need a lot of time, I would not touch a bottle for 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2015/05)


Saturday, 16 May 2015

Exploring The Forgotten Side Of Bordeaux - Chapter IV


Larrivet Haut-Brion has 11,5 ha of white wines. This wine is made of  85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Sémillon.
The vinification takes place in new barrels and the wine spends 11 months in new barrels on its lees before bottling.
More info here.

2010 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion
The nose is just wonderful with its precision and focus. There are lovely notes of lemoncello, tangerines, band aid, freshly cut hay and smoke. A deep, oily character. Gorgeous. Very young.
The taste is big and brawny with stunning yellow fruit and notes of lemon cream, apricots, dry fudge and warm grass. A long, long, expressive finish with warmth and purity. There is lot to like here. Needs 5+ years to really unfold. Great wine.
93p   (tasted 2015/05)

Friday, 15 May 2015

Reading Time!


I buy wines by the bottle and by the dozens, ordering (almost...) something every day. But wine books? Not that often. However, the other day I did something about that and ordered these. And a few more that are on their way.

Its gonna be great to read The Riesling Story by Stuart Pigott, update myself on the magic that is Bordeaux by Stephen Brook, dwelve in The History of Wine in 100 Bottles in the special way that is the writing of Oz Clarke and, of course, I will be eager to see how Kerin O'Keefe has described the foggy hills of Piedmonte and its winemakers.

To be honest, I have a prejudice towards the last book. In a book that focus on the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco and the many fantastic producers, she has omitted Vietti from the chapter of Castiglione Falletto and Domenico Clerico from the chapter of Monforte d'Alba, and in the book altogether. That's like rewriting the Bible and omitting the Exodus (well, almost...:-)).

Thursday, 14 May 2015

Four Bottles From Paolo Scavino

Håkan opened these bottles at our latest monthly tasting.
Tasted double blind.

2009 Barolo Cannubi, Paolo Scavino
A medium deep, open nose with notes of cool red and black cherries, dry leather, dried mushrooms and a fine floral note. A bit on the light side. Good though.
The taste is tight and cool with notes of red cherries, balsa wood, earth, dried mushrooms and leather. The finish is medium long, dry and a bit foursquare. Good with food.
86p   (tasted 2015/05)



2007 Barolo, Paolo Scavino
A big, open, somewhat mature nose with notes of violets, red and black cherries, leather, flowers and mushrooms. Very good although not that deep. Have some character.
The taste is herbal and tight with notes of red cherries, balsa wood, mushrooms, violets and leather. A medium long, balanced finish. For drinking now and the coming 5+ years. Really good.
89p   (tasted 2015/05)

2005 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
A deep, warm, focused nose with notes of black cherries, plums, scorched earth, tobacco and violets. Deep and fine. Still with some baby fat in the fruit.
The taste is cool, seedy and structured with notes of ripe black cherries, cranberries, tobacco, violets and undergrowth. Very long with a fine warmth. Still young, give it 5+ years. This is good.
92p   (tasted 2015/05)


1999 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
A warm, finely tuned nose with some haunting notes of maturity alongside notes of tobacco, black cherries, rosehips, old leather and dried mushrooms. Very, very good. A fine depth and structure.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of black cherries, dried plums, tobacco, mushrooms and rosehips. A long, long finish with still muscular tannins. It has started to mature but I would give it another 3+ years. A fine wine. It performed even greater 3 years ago.
94p   (tasted 2015/05)

Wednesday, 13 May 2015

Drinking Tonight - 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Dupont-Tisserandot

A few days of work, and this was a fine bottle to start the extended weekend with. And again, two glasses head to head.

2010 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Dupont-Tisserandot
Needed some time in the glass and then it showed of fine notes of warm herbs, ripe red cherries, asphalt, forest floor, liquorice and a touch of new leather. Deep and fine. A cool fruit. Very, very good.
The Riedel Vinum glass showed more sweetness and the Zalto displayed a more high toned herbal scent. Both very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and lingonberry fruity with additional notes of gravel, dry liquorice, forest floor and a very fine acidity. Long. Needs time.
The Vinum showed of a clean, fresh taste but the Zalto displayed a deeper, tighter taste and a sweeter finish. All in all it was a tight race between the two glasses, but forced I would choose the Zalto.
91p   (tasted 2015/05)


Monday, 11 May 2015

Live From Gaston Winebar - Part Two

Next up a wine from a natural wine maker - yes I know - but you have to challenge yourself sometimes...:-)

2013 Brouilly V.V., Jean-Claude Lapalu
From a fresh opened bottle it starts of with a funky, chicken yard nose that within minutes transforms into a much more friendly nose with notes of cranberries, herbs, paint, pine resin and a hint of saw dust. I like this nose.
The taste is high strung with fresh red berries in the shape of lingonberries, red currants and cranberries, with a high acidity and some forest floor notes. Long and with a fine dryness. But it is a tad hollow in the middle taste. Ascetic. Liked the nose, but not the taste as much. I guess it would come out better with food.
84p   (tasted 2015/05)


Now of to a wine tasting! :-)

Live From Gaston Winebar - Part One


The newly opened winebar in the NK house needed a visit. I opt for - to keep with the ongoing project - a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, in the shape of

2009 Sancerre Galinot Silex, Gitton
This need some swirling to open up and when in does it reveals interesting aromas of warm grass, ripe lemons, yellow apples and a hint of butter cookies. No cat pee here! Deep and fine. Some maturity. Some smoke also, and expensive soap. Very good.
The taste is dry, fresh and salivating with a fine direct taste of white currants and grass, that evolves into dry cookie dough, lemon oil and a hint of rubber. Reminds me more of a white Bordeaux than of a "traditional" Sancerre. A long, dry finish. This is good.
89p   (tasted 2015/05)

What's next...

Exploring The Forgotten Side Of Bordeaux - Chapter III


Château Paradis Casseuil takes its name from the official name of the main plot of vines,"Vignes du Paradis" ("Vines of Paradise"), and the name of the commune of Casseuil in Entre-Deux-Mers.
The cepage consist of 60% Semillon and 20% each of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. There is no aging on oak. The vinification takes place at Château Rieussec.

The estate was bought by Lafite in 1984 and up to 2012 it was shown on their website, but it is no longer, so I assume that it has been sold.

1995 Château Paradis Casseuil
A mature, lightly smoky nose with notes of dried apricots, grape fruit juice, candle grease and gravel. Some waxy notes after a while. A fine dried up sweetness. Good.
The taste is mature and round with notes of apricots, tangerines, candle grease and flint. The finish is medium long and waxy. Not that deep or complex but a good drink.
85p   (tasted 2015/05)



Sunday, 10 May 2015

Some 90 Pointers

These were tasted & drunk over the last couple of weeks at home.

1999 Rosso do Montalcino Val di Suga, Tenimenti Angelini
A mature, dusty (in a good sense), earthy nose with notes of dried cherries, violets, rosemary, black tea and raspberry liquorice. A fine dried up sweetness. Very, very good. Fully mature.
The taste is round, warm and dry with notes of dried cherries, lingonberries, rosemary, gravel and worn leather. A long, distinctive finish. Mature and fine. Worked wonders with a chicken and mushroom pasta dish.
90p   (tasted 2015/04)



2010 Chianti Montespertoli Petriccio, Fattoria Poggio Capponi
Another 2010 down the hatch! And another good one. The nose shows of a intricate mixture of ripe black cherries, rubber, tea leaves and violet pastilles. With air some pine resin scents emerge. A charming dry sense to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is young and at first a bit ungainly, but with an hour or so in the decanter it evolves nicely, with notes of ripe red and black cherries, fresh herbs, Tuscan gravel an violet pastilles. The finish is medium long, fresh and juicy. Very promising. Give this 2-4 years to really blossom. Gotta get me more bottles of this.
90p   (tasted 2015/04)

2011 Côtes-du-Rhone Guy Louis, Tardieu-Laurent
A young, peppery nose with notes of blueberries, thyme, rosehips, overripe flowers and some blood & iron, makes this a upfront, salivating version of a Côtes-du-Rhone. Very, very good.
The taste is cool, medium bodied and peppery with notes of veal stock, blueberries, red liquorice and a hint of chocolate. A fine sweetness to the fruit. Long and nicely structured. Drinking beautifully on this night but will surely evolve with 2-3 years in the cellar.
90p   (tasted 2015/05)



2013 Pinot Noir Run 245, Pisa Range Estate
This young New Zeeland Pinot has a big, upfront nose with lots of jammy strawberries combined with notes of parsnips, Christmas spices, smoke and dark fudge. There is lots going on here, and the things that are going on are good! A nice depth.
The taste is young, juicy and fresh with notes of sweet lingonberries, wild strawberries, forest floor, chocolate biscuits and warm rosehips. The finish is long and displays a fine acidity. Give this baby 2-3 years in the cellar and good things will come your way.
90p   (tasted 2015/05)

Wednesday, 6 May 2015

Exploring The Forgotten Side Of Bordeaux - Chapter II

Yet another bottle of this mature Bordeaux. And this one performed even better.

La Tour Martillac has a long history and takes it name from a La Tour, remains from a fort built in Martillac in the 12th century.
Edouard Kressman, a wine merchant in Bordeaux, took an interest in the estate in the late 19th century due to its quality of its white wine. His son, Alfred, bought the estate in 1930. By then the estate had 12 ha of vines. 8 if them destined for the white wine.

The current label was introduced with the 1934 vintage, as I can vouch for, since I have a bottle of the 1939 vintage and it looks identical to the one below. That will be fun to taste!
The cepage varies from vintage to vintage but the bulk is, of course, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, with Muscadelle making up the remainder.

David Peppercorn describes La Tour Martillac as - "the white wines are classic Graves which develop complexity and originality with bottle age and can live and improve for many years with their solid base of Sémillon". This 1982 was surely proof of that.

More info here.

1982 Château La Tour Martillac
A fine, open nose, showing some maturity yet still with perky elements. Notes of dried peaches, linoleum, warm grass and yellow roses. Very good. A streak of white pepper emerges with air. A touch chunky, in a good way. Very nice. Holds well in the glass.
The taste is broad and mouth filling with notes of dried tropical fruits, crushed rocks, oilcloth and dried flowers. The finish is long, warm and satisfying. Some maturity. From time to time there is taste like licking a wet suit, interesting... Very, very good. No hurry to drink up.
91p   (tasted 2015/04)

Forgot to take a pic, so I reuse the previous one...

 

Tuesday, 5 May 2015

A Bottle Of Pinot & Two Glasses


I had heard good things about this Pinot so I bought one for a test drive. I took it out on a drive last night with two glasses - Zalto Burgundy and Vinum Extreme Pinot Noir.
This is how the ride went.

2011 Pinot Noir Mt. Jefferson Cuvée, Cristom
First of - this is a fine wine. Gotta get me more of this. But it displayed somewhat different characters in the two glasses.
The nose - out of the Riedel is shows nice aromas of rhubarb, raspberries, red beets and forest floor. A very fine Pinot spiciness. Very, very good. It is good out of the Zalto also, but the fruit seems more red berried and it is leaner, verging on anemic. Still with a fine earthy scent.
The taste - the Riedel shows of a lovely strawberry and rhubarb note with additional notes of wood smoke, liquorice and root vegetables. Long and fine. It is as long and fine from the Zalto but the fruit is cooler and more laid back.
It performs very well out of both glasses but last night I prefered the more forward feel out of the Riedel. On another night I could have put the more restrained feel from the Zalto first.
92p   (tasted 2015/05)


For another test with a young Pinot - look here

Sunday, 3 May 2015

1986 Château Tahbilk & 1986 Château De La Rivière


A couple of weeks ago I opened these over dinner with some friends.

1986 Château Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon
A deep, hedonistic, round and sweet nose with notes of pickled cherries, baked red beets, cigar smoke, black currant jam with a hint of eucalyptus. Deep and rewarding. A lovely sweetness to the fruit. Some maturity but this is lively yet. Keeps it up all evening long.
The taste plump, intense and warm with notes of pipe tobacco, ripe black currants, scorched earth and worn leather. The eucalyptus note is hidden in the long, warm finish. Ends dry and fine. I guess we caught this on its height of evolution, I wouldn´t save any bottles for much longer. A great drink.
91p   (tasted 2015/04)



1986 Château de La Rivière
I have to explore this estate more. In the last month or two I have drunk the 1990 and
the 1985 (from magnum), and now this. In all cases I have found a really fine, firm, old fashioned Bordeaux that's really is up my alley. And they can be bought for a song!
Anyway, the 1986 offers up a deep, mature, somewhat low keyed nose that needs some time in the glass to open up. When it does, fine scents of red and black currants, dried plums, cigar ashes, stables and worn leather oozes up from the glass. A rustic elegance. Touch of violet pastilles. Really, really good. Fully mature, I guess.
The taste is taut, tight and mature with ripe black currants, warm herbs, cigar, autumn leaves and old leather. The finish is medium bodied with some finely chiselled tannins and a lovely dryness, the perfect food companion. Very, very good. This is also on top of its game but I´m sure that this will stay this way for at least another 4-6 years. As good as the 1990.
I managed to secure 6 more bottles of the 1986, for the ghastly prize of 13 Euro each - who´s says Bordeaux is expensive...:-)
93p   (tasted 2015/04)

Saturday, 2 May 2015

Exploring The Forgotten Side Of Bordeaux - Chapter I


When you´re gonna start, why not start at the top!
As Clive Coates writes - "one of the top dry white wines of Bordeaux: Laville from La Mission and Haut-Brion Blanc being the only rivals"

Known as Domaine the Cibaley when it appears on a map about 1775. By 1824 the named has shifted to Domaine de Chevalier. The estate, for unknown reasons, fell into oblivion and the vines was uprooted until 1860 when the Ricard family bought the land and planted vines again.
In 1948, Claude Ricard took over the estate and managed every vintage up to 1988, 40 years of wine making. Impressive!

The white Domaine de Chevalier is made from 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, from 4 ha of land. It is fermented in oak barrels, old, not new ones. It is given about one and a half year in barrels before released. New oak is now about 50% but under Claude Ricards reign is was at most 30%.

Pamela Vandyke Price writes in her book Wines of the Graves (1988) about the white Domaine de Chevalier - "it is a wonder to those who are willing to let it talk to them"

I´m here - let us talk.

More info here.

1986 Domaine de Chevalier
The 29 year old Domaine de Chevalier is, sadly, a bit tired. The nose is big, broad and mature with notes of old erasers, dried peach, Christmas spices, old grass and almond paste. It is a touch overblown and wrinkled, but it has some charm never the less.
The taste is more vigorous and better well kept than the nose, with notes of dried apricots, eraser, nuts, grass and a touch of paint. Warm and long. Dry lavender honey in the finish. Very good. Rich.
86p   (tasted 2015/04)



1997 Domaine de Chevalier
The 1986 isn´t a slouch on its own but compared to the 1997 it doesn´t stand a chance. This stunner has a gorgeous, deep, interesting nose with notes of candied lemons, green olives, wet stones and lanolin. Deep and profound. Layers upon layers of sweet/sour yellow fruit. Stunning.
The taste is intense and concentrated with notes of apricots, plastics, grass and matchbox. The finish is over one minute long. Very complex with a lovely perfumed note. Structured and fine. Great wine. Some mature notes but this has a long way to go. This project starts out great!
95p   (tasted 2015/04)

Friday, 1 May 2015

Lunch Tasting With Wines from Louis Jadot


VinUnic invited to a tasting with Pierre-Henry Gagey, President Maison Louis Jadot and a special look at Beaune.
Interesting as usual and Mr Gagey delivered several insights on the wines from Beaune and the vintages present.
The ambience and service at Operakällaren, where the tasting was held, was of world class.



2014 Rosé de Marsannay Domaine Clair-Daü
This was served as a welcome wine. It has a light, nice nose with notes of lingonberries, raspberry candy and sun warm pebbles. A touch sparse.
The taste is cool and light with notes of red currants, lingonberries and gravel. A medium long finish. A bit thin in the middle taste. Good. Should work will with a summer salad. I liked 2011 better.
83p   (tasted 2015/04)


Jadot Rosé and the Royal Castle
At the table we were presented with three white wines.
2012 Ladoix Le Clou D´Orge
A young, upfront, salivating nose with notes of red lemons, dried apricots and melted butter. There is a fine smokiness from the wood. Very, very good.
The taste is young, fresh and smoky with notes of white peaches, lemon peel, gravel and butter biscuits. Long and fine. Really good and this will go into the cellar. A bargain for 22 Euro.
90p   (tasted 2015/04)


2010 Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes
Even better is the first wine from Beaune. It has a deep, creamy nose with notes of sweet/sour lemons, warm hay, lemon tart and minerals. A lovely purity.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of wet stones, white currants and peaches and some smoky notes. A long, fresh finish with a high, fine acidity. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2015/04)


2010 Beaune 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc
The Le Clos has a big, spicy nose with some oxidative characteristics in the shape of overripe lemons, banana peel and fried spices. There is depth here but it is a bit odd.
The taste is much better and keeps things together just fine with notes of gravel, red currants, lemon cream and matchbox. The finish is long and warm. Very good to drink but the nose...?
86p   (tasted 2015/04)

The first flight of red wines was a interesting comparison of four Beaune 1er Cru from the same vintage. Overall, great quality.
2010 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
The Grèves has a elegant, cool nose with notes of lingonberries, dried strawberries and earth. A fine lightness to the fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is young and seedy with notes of red currants, lingonberries, forest floor and hints of wild strawberries. A fine acidity. Really good.
91p   (tasted 2015/04)


2010 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Couchereaux
The next Beaune has a darker, more precise nose with notes of lingonberry liquorice, rosehips, red plums and some leather. Handsome. Great wine.
The taste is tight and transparent with fine notes of just ripening raspberries, warm gravel, liquorice and a hint of pine wood. The finish is long and luscious. This I like!
93p   (tasted 2015/04)

2010 Beaune 1er Cru Boucherottes
The Boucherottes is close to Pommard and it shows. The nose is deep and seedy with notes of moist earth, ripe red currants, animal fur and a touch of red beets. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and powerful with notes of red currants, liquorice, plums and forest floor. There is some sturdy tannins in the long finish. Needs time.
90p   (tasted 2015/14)


2010 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules
The piece of land where the ancestors of Louis Jadot bought in 1826. Today, the wine from this plot, shows a deep, focused nose with notes of red currants, raspberries and some blueberries tossed in for complexity. Lovely. Very young though. A bit more compact than the others. Rich.
The taste is refined and precise with a nice backbone of ripe red and black fruits and lots of warm undergrowth, liquorice and velvety tannins. Long and satisfying. This will become a stunner in 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2015/04)


The second flight of reds were three different Grand Cru wines with some age - lovely!
2009 Clos Vougeot
The Clos Vougeot opens with a deep, concentrated nose with notes of mashed strawberries, forest floor, fried root vegetables and expensive leather. Still on the young side of things. Very deep. Really fine.
The taste is young and broad with creamy raspberry fruit and notes of liquorice, forest floor, Christmas spices and red beet juice. A long,, long finish with a fine acidity. Wait 5+ years to do the deed.
94p   (tasted 2015/04)



2006 Clos de la Roche
The wine of the lunch. The nose is deep and luxuriant with gorgeous notes of wild strawberries, root vegetables, forest floor, bonfire, morels and sugared coffee. A hint of maturity. Velvety yet deep and powerful. Great wine.
The taste is intense and pure with notes of ripe raspberries, blueberries, forest floor, parsnip purée and hung game. The finish is long, long and structured. A lovely wine that will become even greater with 5-7 years in the cellar.
95p   (tasted 2015/04)

2003 Charmes-Chambertin
The nose is just awesome with deep, hedonistic notes of mashed strawberries, game, melted asphalt, chocolate and moist forest floor. Sweet and yummy. A bit lose on the edges but still, savoury and opulent.
The taste doesn´t really fill the shoes of the nose. It is sweet, velvety and rich, yes. But the middle taste is a bit dry. Notes of dried strawberries, dry forest floor, worn leather and dog fur. Very rich. Long. A result of the hot year. Great with food. A lovely nose but the taste doesn´t match it. Very, very good though. Would drink it any day, if someone else is picking up the bill...
90p   (tasted 2015/04)