Monday, 5 December 2016

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - Part One

The Barolo Boys landed in Piedmont last week for four days tasting, drinking and eating! After some interesting...detours through Europe due to the fact that Lufthansa were on strike for the fifteen time this year (note to self - never book a trip with Lufthansa again!) we settled in at our rented apartment in La Morra.
After a couple of hours sleep we woke up to a glorious day. The sun was shining from a clear blue sky and the air was high, refreshing och full of Langhe aromas. After a quick breakfast it was time to drive to our first visit.





Cavallotto
A barking dog greats us on the parking place just beside the estate. We started with some pictures of the beautiful landscape in the crisp sun, before Giuseppe Cavallotto comes out and greats us. Last time I visited Cavallotto 8 years ago it was also Giuseppe that took care of us. His brother Alfi were out travelling, promoting the great wines of Cavallotto. It was again a great visit with a charming, dedicated and  a bit shy (he refused any pictures to be taken of him :-)) Giuseppe that showed us these wines.

2015 Pinner
A made up name since the rules doesn´t allow Pinot Noir on the label. It is fermented without the skins, hence becoming a white (!), interesting wine. It comes out of 1 ha vineyard and the production is only 5.000 bottles each vintage.
The nose is big, earthy and gravelly with notes of almond paste, dry vanilla ice cream and white peaches. Very good. It kept changing in the glass over the minutes we had it. Would be very interesting to get more time with this.
The taste is broad and velvety with notes of dried flowers, almond paste, herbs and orange blossom water. A long, warm finish with a very good, dry ending. A bit odd but very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)



2013 Barbera d´Alba Superiore Vigna del Cuculo
This excellent Barbera comes from a 2,13 ha big vineyard. The nose is open, fruity and fantastic with notes of black cherries, raspberry liquorice, cigarr smoke and warm earthy aromas. This is really fine. Super fruit with depth and class.
The taste is young, tight and focused with a lovely mix of raspberries and cherries, with some sweet minerals, wood smoke and liquorice tossed in. A long finish with a fine acidity. Very, very fine. Drink now and the coming 8+ years.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2014 Langhe Nebbiolo
We got very mixed signals from the winegrowers (those we visited grow wines, they don´t "make" wines, consequently I don´t use the term winemakers, but more on that philosophical distinction on an other occasion) about the 2014 vintage.
A very cold summer and lots of rain ruined, for the most part, the Dolcetto´s and Barbera´s, but a Indian summer rescued the Nebbiolo. Some said it is going to turn out as a very good vintage, some said average and one - Roberto Conterno (more on that later) said it was going to one of the greatest vintages ever...
But there were also hail which destroyed the vintage for some, and Cavallotto was one of those. No Barolo´s in 2014. All the wine from the young vines is going to be sold to a negociant and only the grapes from the old vines will appear under a Cavallotto label, as Langhe Nebbiolo. But I for one wish they hadn´t done that either, since the Cavallotto name on the label garanties a fine bottle of wine. This isn´t.
The nose is dusty and linear with notes of wrinkly, dry red cherries, damsons, dry earth and a hint of rosehips. A bit hollow in the middle.
The taste is medium bodied, foursquare and herbal with some dusty tannins, lingonberries and dried mushrooms. Medium long and dry. Too bad.
78p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Bricco Boschis
Well, the next bottle made up for the 2014 Langhe. We got to taste a whole bunch of 12 Barolo on this trip and got a fairly good picture of the vintage, but those impressions will come in another post.
The nose is deep, handsome and nicely put together with notes of ripe wild strawberries, sweet earth, asphalt and the scent of rose bushes when you pass them. Very fine. Some autumn aromas. Beautiful.
The taste is young, tight and refreshing with salivating tannins and notes of red cherries, raspberry liquorice, rose petals and autumn leaves. A long, finely tuned finish that leaves the mouth dry and ready for the next sip. Lovely. Give this beauty 6 years in the cellar. We left Giuseppe in high spirit after a, yet again, delightful visit.
93p   (tasted 2016/12)





Already time for lunch? Well ok then, we head for Serralunga and Centro Storico, where owner Alessio reigns over a fantastic, small Vinoteca with an amazing Champagne list - six pages long! And the wine list doesn´t come far behind.
We shared a plate of salami and then a airy tajarin and sumptuous raviolo with butter and sage. Great food, wine and ambience. We went back there for lunch on our last day, before we had to go to the airport. I will be back!







We had another lunch party right behind us and mid lunch an gentleman came over to us with a bottle of wine and asked if we wanted to taste it. Since we have no capability to say no to wine (and why should we?!) we of course gladly accepted. It turned out to be the winegrower himself and he poured us his 2009 Barolo Meriame Riserva, Paolo Manzone who showed a big, open, fruity nose with notes of tobacco, strawberries and dusty earth and had a large structured taste with some rustic tannins and lots of ripe cherries and tobacco. Long and good (87p). We talked a bit and then we fetches another bottle and pours it. It turns out to be his 2012 Barolo Meriame and it is a beauty! The nose is delicate and tight with notes of sweet red cherries, herbs, undergrowth and a hint of pepper. The taste is young and focused with notes of ripe red cherries, forest floor, mushrooms and with an airy feeling, yet it shows some firm tannins. This I would love to taste again (92p). A winegrower to seek out.



But there is more to do than eat and drink well (or is there?), so we headed for Castiglione Falletto and our next visit.

Vietti
My third visit to Vietti and this time we was greated by Elena Currado. I still vividly remember our first visit when Alfredo Currado was still alive and helped to pour the wines we tasted and telling us great stories from the past. He was a pioneer in bottling single vineyards wines with his 1961 Rocche (I have the 1967 Rocche and 1970 Zunino in the cellar, when I will open them I will remember that great man).
We were asked it we wanted to taste the whole range of 12 Barolo´s. What to answer...



2015 Roero Arneis
But first, the ever so fine Roero Arneis. Imho, the finest in Piedmont, alongside the one from Bruno Giacosa (which we had later).
The nose is cool and seedy with notes of grey pears, dry almond, grapefruit and a fine perfumed scent. Salivating. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and cool with notes of white currants, grey pears and lots of gravel. A fine finish with good acidity and dryness. Drinking very fine.
88p   (tasted 2016/12)


2013 Barbera La Crena
Another fine 13 Barbera. This one has a big, open nose with notes of blackberries, salt liquorice, damp earth and dark perfume. Very, very good. Darker and broader than Cavallotto´s version.
The taste is big, tight and focused with notes of black cherries, undergrowth and raspberry liquorice. A long, warm finish with a good acidity. This will be drinking fine for 6+ years.
90p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Castiglione
The Vietti´s Normale displays fine, open nose with notes of dark lingonberries, dried strawberries and a touch of smoke. Very good although a bit light.
The taste is tight and medium concentrated with notes of dried cherries, black earth and some coffe notes. A medium long, dry finish. Very good. Drinkable now and the coming 5+ years.
87p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Brunate
The Brunate is several steps up on the quality ladder, with its deep, intriguing nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, ripe flowers, liquorice and an ever so slight scent of coconut. This is good. Very fine fruit.
The taste is ripe and intense with notes of ripe red cherries, flowers, mushrooms and sweet minerals. Very polished tannins maked up the long, distinct finish. Wait 5 years to do the deed. Really fine.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Ravera
This is much more restrained and refined on the nose with a nice perfume of dried flowers and additional aromas of red cherries, lingonberries and rosehips. A hint of chocolate in the background. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of lingonberries, red currants and some discrete forest notes. Cool, salivating tannins. A finely tuned wine that gives a ascetic impression. I would wait at least 5 years until opening a bottle.
90p   (tasted 2016/12)


2012 Barolo Rocche
The Rocche gets under my skin every time, in a very positive way. The nose flows up from the glass with lovely notes of ripe black cherries, dried strawberries, tobacco and sweet minerals. A fine depth, concentration and a sturdy backbone. Great.
The taste is tight and intense with a gorgeous balance and notes of sweet/sour dark cherries, forest floor, hard cherry candy and wood smoke. A very long finish with some rough and ready tannins that are polished velvety. A great wine that will be drinking perfectly in 6+ years.
94p   (tasted 2016/12)

2012 Barolo Lazzarito
The Lazzarito is even denser and darker than the Rocche with a smoky, deep nose with notes of ripe blackberries, cigarr smoke, raspberry liquorice and ceps. Very deep and just lovely.
The taste is young, tight and seedy with notes of charcoal, red plums, dark fudge and dried flowers. Massive tannins in the finish. Very, very long. Give this brute 8+ years. Maybe a tad big for some Nebbiolo afficionados, but I love it!
93p   (tasted 2016/12)

2015 Moscato d´Asti
What a great way to end this tasting. Light, refreshing and yummy with notes of elderberries, yellow plums and tangerines. Some spicy notes. Very good.
The taste is elegant and cool with a fine acidity and notes of passion fruit, ripe lemons and a hint of nuts. Very gulpable.
86p   (tasted 2016/12)

No rest for the wicked! After saying our goodbyes we rolled down the hill to our next visit.

Paolo Scavino
This is the beauty with these kind of visits, besides tasting great wines we get too meet these passionate and fascinating people behind the labels. We sat with Enrica Scavino for two hours, tasting the wines below and discussing wine, life and everything in between.

2012 Barolo Bricco Ambrogia
The Scavino´s bought this vineyard in 2001 and interesting enough the only Barolo label they released in the tough vintage of 2002. The nose is deep with lovely sweet cherry fruit and additional notes of dark flowers, crushed rocks, liquorice and some wood smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is pure and sturdy with notes of dark cherries, chocolate biscuits and liquorice. A long, distinct finish with nicely polished tannins. Really good. This will be drinkable in 3+ years time.
92p   (tasted 2016/12)



2012 Barolo Monviglerio
The Monviglieri sports a deep, wonderful nose with notes of dark cherries, tobacco smoke, ceps and a dark earthy aroma. A lovely perfumed aroma. Very deep. This is great.
The taste appears at first as rather velvety and accessible until the cool, focused tannins strike in the finish. Lots of ripe black cherries, tobacco and rose water. This is a fine bottle of Barolo. Drink in 4+ years time.
94p   (tasted 2016/12)



2012 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
I love Bric dël Fiasc. A couple of years ago I arranged a tasting with 12 vintages, and besides two corked bottles every wine was great. How abour the 2012 then?
The nose flows up from the glass with lovely ripe cherry fruit and notes of salt liquorice, fresh ceps, fir and a gorgeously perfumed scent. Very pure and seamless.
The taste is young, ripe yet finely focused with notes of ripe black cherries, tobacco, hard cherry candy and a hint of dark chocolate. The finish is over a minute long and the tannins are impressive. Built for the ages. Wait 6+ years.
95p   (tasted 2016/12)

2010 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata
What is the definition of true greatness? In my case, when in comes to wine, is that I am left speechless and can´t get a word down in my notebook and have a hard time describing the wine verbally. I just sit there and are one with the wine. I have jotted down lots of adjectives, all positive, one larger than the other, but I won´t repeat them here. They can´t do justice to this wine. You just have to drink it for yourself. I will.
100p   (tasted 2016/12)


In time for dinner one lost Barolo Boys brother joined us and we went to Il Centro for dinner. Very good food and a fine bottle of Barolo ended our first day in heaven.

2010 Barolo Cinestra Casa Maté
A deep, spicy, pure nose with notes of concentrated red cherries, Christmas spices, red currants and fresh mushrooms. After some time in the glass lots of rose petals. Almost vibrating in the glass. This is a serious wine. Great.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of red and black cherries, sweet flowers, rosehips, forest floor and a touch of asphalt. Very, very long with finely polished tannins. This will need another 5+ years before reaching its full potential but it is irresistible today. Just lovely.
95p   (tasted 2016/12)


Carne cruda - my go to starter when in Piedmonte

Barolo & tajarin with white truffle!

An old, traditional dish with mixed intestines - great flavours!


Saturday, 26 November 2016

95, 96, 97, 98 & 99 Parker Points Wines


At our last monthly tasting groups get to together, Roderick poured an interesting flight of wines. This is the third time he has arranged this, what he calls "Parker Calibration".
The setup is easy enough - we get to know that 5 wines will be poured with, in this case, Parker points of 95, 96, 97, 98 and 99. Our job is to guess what the wines are, what point Parker has assigned and what score we give the wines.

Here we go!

Glass One
A rather big, outgoing nose with some maturity and notes of blackberries, herbs, choclate biscuits and some peppery aromas. A fine warmth. Very, very good.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of fried herbs, dark cherries, warm tiles and dusty gravel. A long, warm finish with some nicely evolved structured tannins. Drinking fine today.
I was leaning to a more modern Barolo with some age and barrique aging, but no, it is a 100% Sangiovese, more specifically 1997 Cepparello, Isole e Olena. Judging from this bottle, should not be kept for much longer. Much more impressive three years ago. I guessed that Parker had a 95 point score on this, and so it was. I am more moderate and give it
92p   (tasted 2016/11)



Glass Two
A fine, deep, somewhat mature nose with notes of ripe cherries, bay leaves, smoke, stables and dark chocolate. Very, very good. Complex and deep.
The taste is tight and sandy with notes of ripe black currants, gravel, dry tobacco and graphite. A long, lingering finish with velvety tannins. This is really good.
It has to be a Cabernet, but from where? I jotted down Bordeaux? and Tuscany?, and finally settled for Bordeaux. But no, a fine 100% Cabernet from Italy in the shape of 1997 Cortaccio, Villa Cappagio. Contrary to the Cepparello, this was better today than three years ago. Parker point? 96 is my guess, and that is correct. I am almost as enthusiastic.
95p   (tasted 2016/11)

Glass Three
Everyone was surprised when the bottle was revealed. I had this pegged as a Châteauneuf-du-Pape... The nose is deep, warm and creamy with notes of asphalt, cooked blackberries, wood smoke and assorted herbs. Not bad at all but somewhat lacking in character.
The taste is big and concentrated with a fiery black fruit and notes of undergrowth, dark liquorice, herbs and some animal notes. A long finish with some charcoal notes.
All signs of a big Ch-du-Pape that the Monkton guy likes (but I usually don´t). What!? 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Philip Togni. No f....g way! There must be something wrong with this bottle, everyone was surprised, not a guess even close. Not a bad wine per se though. 97 from Parker. Ah well, I´ll give it (with a big question mark)
88p   (2016/11)



Glass Four
Oooh boy! What a wine. The clear winner in the line up. A great nose oozes up from the glass with notes of perfectly ripe black currants, liquorice, expensive tobacco and a beautiful perfumed scent. Very deep and handsome. It feels luxurious. Great wine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe red and black currants, lead pencil shavings and tobacco. A long velvety finish with some nicely polished tannins underneath the ripe fruit. A great mouthfeel. Just entering maturity.
I was dead certain that this was a top notch California Cab or a more modern style Bordeaux, and when pressured I went for Bordeaux. Ok then - there is some Cabernet in this wine, but the rest is Grenache, Carignan and Syrah... The wine? 2001 Clos Mogador, René Barbier. Parker? 98p, and guess what, I´m almost there myself. A stunning wine.
97p   (tasted 2016/11)

Glass Five
Well, this is something extra. The nose explodes from the glass with notes of vanilla coated blackberries, mint, ripe flowers and glue (more specifically "björnklister", which everu Swede know what it is). Lots of warmth. A bit all over the place. Very deep.
The taste is broad amd big with notes of raspberry liquorice, blackberries, toothpaste and burned almonds. A long, hot finish that ends with a alcohol sense. Too big for my liking even though it holds together nicely, even when it gets warmer in the glass.
My guess? An over the top Shiraz from Aussie land, and it is 2005 Carnival of Love, Mollydooker. I got one right at least :-) 17% alcohol... A Parker 99 pointer, that´s about ten points too high.
89p   (tasted 2016/11)




Tuesday, 22 November 2016

Drinking Tonight - 2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa

With some Italian delicatessen and cheeses left over from the weekend I opened this bottle on this run of the mill Tuesday.

2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
A vigorous, upfront nose with notes of hard cherry candy, flower water, undergrowth and some band aid. Some maturity. Medium deep. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied with a fine acidity and notes of sweet/sour cherries, red currants, gravel and a fine salty note. Very nice. A very nice mouthfeel. On this evening, very gulpable.
87p   (tasted 2016/11)



Sunday, 20 November 2016

Just Bought


It is always nice when magnums arrive. This time in the shape of 1997 Castello di Brolio, Barone Ricasoli.
Tasted twice in the last couple of years - in 2012 & in 2015.

Friday, 18 November 2016

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos, Château Fuissé

Some cheese makes up a light friday dinner, and I opened a nice white Burgundy to go along.

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos, Château Fuissé
This producer makes great Chardonnay´s from Pouilly-Fuissé. This is a Monopole wine with more than 50 years old vines. The nose is stunning with notes of grilled lemons, hazel nuts, candle grease and melted butter. Lots of white flowers and a touch of matchbox. Deep and tight. This is really fine.
The taste is rich and potent with notes of blood oranges, lemon cream, lemon fudge and wheat cookies. The finish is long, long, long and balanced. A very fine acidity. Great wine, that will become even greater with 5-7 years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2016/11)

More wines from Château Fuissé - 1995 Pouilly-Fuissé & 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Brûlés




Sunday, 13 November 2016

An Odd Bottle Tasting

You know those odd bottles you have in the cellar? Some are destined for that tasting that never will come together, some are spur-of-the-moment buys and when they arrive you wonder - why did I buy these, and some you don´t even remember byuing - where did they come from?
Anyway, I thought I would pick out some of these odd ones and have a tasting. Here is how it went.

1976 Grande Cuvée Venus, H. Germain
This turned out to be a nice surprise. When I bought it, it was listed as a NV from the 80´s. But when the cork came out with a tiny whisper, it said 1976 on it. Now ny expectations rose.
The nose is mature and finely tuned with notes of pickled orange peel, nuts, dry fudge and stale bread. A very fine maturity with a nice dried up sweetness. Very, very good.
The taste is round and velvety with tiny, tiny bubbles and notes of orange peel, coffe and milk, dry fudge and a fine earthy note. A very good acidity. Drinking very well.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)



1959 Muscat, Nicolas Charenton
Some two years ago I had a 1964 Muscadet that was stunning. This 59 wasn´t. A big, oxidized nose with notes of moist mushrooms, old honey and undergrowth.
The taste is dry and liniar with some mushrooms, saw dust and dried up grass. Ah, well, old bottles...
62p   (tasted 2016/10)

The first flight consisted of three bottles from the 1976 vintage. Heard from one of the tasters - "if the middle wine isn´t a Burgundy, I need to go a wine course"... I wish him luck in his future training :-)
1976 Beaune Clos des Mouches, Chanson
A fine, soft, spicy nose with notes of dried strawberries, autumn leaves, rosehips and some animal scents. Very, very good. All bottles popped and poured but this kept on growing momentum for some hours. Christmas spices and dried blood. Really good.
The taste is mature, seedy and medium bodied with notes of dried raspberries, forest floor, dried herbs and some dog fur. A fine, dry finish. Again, got better with air. Drinking great on this night.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)

1976 Royal Gran Reserva, Bodegas Franco-Espanol
A nice, outgoing, mature nose with notes of raspberry liquorice, ripe red currants, smoke and a hint of vanilla. Very good. Since I knew what it was I thought it had some tell tale seashell and vanilla scents, but the others who tasted blind thought that all three were Burgundies. Blind tasting is great! :-)
The taste is mature, soft and round with notes of sweet red currants, raspberry liquorice, chocolate biscuits and wood smoke. A fine warmth. Long and lingering. Very good. Still alive and kicking.
88p   (tasted 2016/10)

1976 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Domaine Paul Misset
A tight, withdrawn, mature nose with notes of red currants, dark spices, warm tiles and iron. Much sturdier than the two previous wines. Has a firm backbone. Earthy. Very good.
The taste is tight and warm with notes of red currants, red cherries, dusty earth, Christmas spices and smoke. A long, rigid finish. Very good but a tad foursquare. Has kept very well.
87p   (tasted 2016/10)


For the second flight I had "found" three bottles of Bordeaux from the great vintage of 1989. All decanted one hour before the first pour.
1989 Château La Tour de Mons
Opened like a mature Bordeaux with tell tale signs but soon enough some dusty, earth cellar notes took over. Not an ok bottle, sadly.
Not rated   (tasted 2016/10)

1989 Château Lanessan
I have not tasted many bottles of Lanessan over the years, but now I will seek out more mature bottles. The nose is tight and focused with fine notes of ripe black currants, cherries, graphite and some dog fur, to add to the complexity. Very, very good. Still on the young side of things.
The taste is tight, medium bodied yet feeling rich and concentrated, with notes of ripe black currants, expensive leather, undergrowth and a tad inky. Very, very long. Reaching its plateau of maturity, this will go on for a long time.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)


Calf kidneys to go with mature Bordeaux

1989 Château d´Issan
A deep, mature, creamy nose with notes of ripe black currants, fresh stables, chocolate biscuits and some fine leathery aromas. More and more autumn leaves comes up from the glass with air. Very, very good. Perfectly mature.
The taste is mature, dry and yet velvety in that great mature Bordeaux kind of way. Fine notes of ripe red and black currants, sugared coffee, dusty earth and tobacco. The finish is long and generous. This has matured into a very fine bottle of mature Margaux.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)

A flight of Riesling´s was up next.
1995 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese, Reichgraf von Kesselstatt
A wonderful, spicy, almost fully mature nose with notes of Kaffir lime, oranges, minerals, liquorice and bergamott. A very fine nerve. Deep and beautiful.
The taste is medium dry, intense and somewhat mature with notes of candied lemon peel, dried pears, spices and crushed rocks. A very fine acidity. Long and balanced. Really, really fine, should stay on this level for another 5+ years.
94p   (tasted 2016/10)

1997 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese, Reichgraf von Kesselstatt
The two year younger version of the Scharzhofberger has a deep, spicy nose with notes of dried apricots, almond paste, white flowers and wet asphalt. Complex and fine. Feels a little sweeter and denser than the 95.
The taste is rich and intense with notes of dried apricots, rubber, sweet/sour lemons and spices. A long, finely tuned finish that borders on medium sweet. A very good acidity. This is goood! Could still evolve, give it 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)


1999 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Reichgraf von Kesselstatt
A deep. sweet, spicy nose with notes of rubber, dried pine apple, moist earth and a light touch of curry. Sweet and fine.
The taste is big, sweet and concentrated with notes of spicy yellow fruit, rubber, dried flowers and lemon candy. A long, high finish with a good acidity. A tad light in the middle flavour, but very good all the same.
88p   (tasted 2016/10)

As a sweet ending of the evening I opened a mature Sauternes and served some Cantuccini with it - these almond biscuits goes extremely well with mature Sauternes.
1986 Château Rayne-Vigneau
A deep, focused, rich nose with notes of dried apricots, glue, beeswax and a good portion of botrytis. Very, very good. Some dried up vanilla ice cream. Full bodied. A lovely maturity. This is really fine.
The taste is big, sweet and concentrated with notes of dried apricots, matchbox, linoleum, candied tangerines and botrytis. Very long and intense. In a perfect place.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)



Saturday, 12 November 2016

Two White Burgundy Clunkers From The Fine 2014 Vintage

Tried these out tonight to go with a chunky piece of cod with mixed vegetables and a white wine sauce with a hint of ginger.

2014 Bourgogne Couvent des Jacobins, Louis Jadot
This has a upfront, nice nose with notes of candied lemons, a hint of pine apple, butter cup flowers and sweet minerals. Feels like there were some really ripe fruit that went into this wine. Good.
The taste is young and fresh with notes of grilled lemons, lemon candy, old flower water and wet stones. A medium long, warm finish with a nice enough acidity, but it is a tad heavy at the end. For 14 Euro I would choose something else.
82p   (tasted 2016/11)


2014 Bourgogne Les Sétilles, Olivier Leflaive
Like this. You have to pay 3 Euro more, but you get a better wine. A young, steely nose with notes of lemons, tangerines, pickled ginger, flint and gravel. Very, very good.
The taste is fresh, liniar and perky with lots of ripe acidity and notes of lime juice, ginger, star fruit and crushed rocks. A fine mouth feel. Should get even better with some years in the cellar.
87p   (tasted 2016/11)


Friday, 11 November 2016

Another Fine Italian 93 - Gravello, Librandi

As I have noted many times before, 1993 is an underrated vintage in Italy, in Piedmont, in Tuscany and, as in this case, in Calabria.

1993 Gravello, Librandi
This IGT is a blend of 60% Gaglioppo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. The first vintage was 1988.
The nose is deep, warm and mature with notes of fried rosemary, ripe black currants, lead pencil and some asphalt scents. Very, very good. A touch of wood smoke after a while. Mature, yes, but still has lots to offer.
The taste is warm, spicy and seedy with notes of warm tiles, chocolate covered cherries, rosemary and scorched earth. A very fine warmth. Long and firm. Almost fully mature. A very good drink on this Friday evening. The price for a mature Calabrian bottle, bought a couple of weeks ago? A staggering 10 Euro...
88p   (tasted 2016/11)