Saturday, 28 March 2015

2011 Paleo, Scrio & Messorio


I got a chance to taste the new vintages from Le Macchiole.

2013 Paleo Bianco
The cepage is 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Chardonnay. The nose is open wide with deep, broad notes of papaya, sweet white currants, blood oranges and some wood smoke. Very good.
The taste is big and spicy with notes of melon, orange peel, butter biscuits and a hint of wood vanilla. A long finish with a good warmth. Needs time to settle down a bit. 
87p   (tasted 2015/03)

2013 Bolgheri Rosso
This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Syrah, displays a warm, hearthy nose with notes of black cherries, plums, dusty earth, some pepper and some animal scents. 
The taste is young, big and tight with a mix of black fruits with additional notes of dark chocolate, cherry pips and dusty earth. A long, dry finish. A good "generic" wine but lacks in character.
85p   (tasted 2015/03)

2011 Paleo
This 100% Cabernet Franc burst out of the glass with fine notes of sweet red currants, ripe herbs, undergrowth, leather and some warm red apple aromas. Very deep and fine.
The taste is young, tight and spicy with notes of just ripening plums, red currants, leather, cigar ashes and some chocolate notes. A long, intense finish. Lots of potential. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2015/03)


2011 Scrio
100% Syrah - what not to like!? This young puppy shows of a big, warm, smoky nose with notes of blueberries, rubber, assorted herbs, white peppers and cold coffee. Deep and finely structured. Very young.
The taste is young, tight and concentrated with notes if lightly peppered meat, blueberries, leather and some forest notes. Very long and tight with finely polished tannins. Will turn out great with 3-5 years in the cellar.
92p   (tasted 2015/03)



2011 Messorio
Aaaah, what a nose - deep, pure and just fantastic with notes of plums, raspberry liquorice, expensive leather, fine herbs and a warm gravel. A very creamy character. Hauntingly beautiful.
The taste is pure, intense and just lovely with notes of sweet red currants, plums, cigarette ashes and a touch of asphalt. The finish is long, long, long and very promising. This will turn out great, maybe as
the 1999 taste a while back.
95p   (tasted 2015/03)

 

Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Another Lovely Example Of A Mature Bordeaux

Last time it was a bottle of 1989 Château Beaumont. This time it is a bottle of

1990 Château de La Rivière
This Fronsac delivers the goods from the first pour until the last. The nose displays a perfectly mature, deep and beautiful nose with notes of dried red and black currants, autumn leaves, dry stables, plums and soft leather. A very fine, ripe, mature fruit. Deep and enticing.
The taste is ripe, mature and velvety with sweet red currants, damsons, autumn leaves, pencil shavings, dried plums and leather. The finish is long, expressive and with a lovely dryness.
A text book Bordeaux in a perfect stage of its life.
93p   (tasted 2015/03)

I want more of this - just ordered two magnums of 1985 and two bottles of 1986 - should be nice to try!

Tuesday, 24 March 2015

A Study In Mouflon & Mouton



Djuret arranged one of their "A study in..." and I was lucky to get two seats, so me and Peter went there for an evening with stunning food, excellent service and some Mouton...

NV Henriot Brut Souverain
Henriot is one of my, many, favourite houses and this Souverain delivers a fresh, open nose with notes of fudge, minerals and lemon zest.
The taste is young and pure with notes of sweet minerals, dried flowers, white currants and fudge. A fine, persistent finish. Enjoyable, especially with a spoon of Karelian caviar!
88p   (tasted 2015/03)


 

2010 Aile d`Argent
The white Mouton was served with a tartar of the topside of the mouflon with ramson and rye bread - lip smacking good! The wine showed of a nose with notes of sweet flowers, rubber, dried peaches and a hint of soap.
The taste is fine and open with notes of melted butter, plastic, flowers and some smoke. The finish is long and broad. Lacks a bit of elegance.
85p   (tasted 2015/03)

2009 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild
There is nothing "petite" with this wine, its displays a gorgeous nose with notes of fresh blueberries, black currants, cigar smoke and a very well cleaned out stable. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and inky with notes of ripe black currants, blueberries, graphite and coffee grounds. The finish is long and structured. Some very finely chiselled tannins. A perfect compliment to the Mouflon sausage with white beans, sage and Mouflon stock.
90p   (tasted 2015/03)


2001 Château Mouton Rothschild
Time for the real stuff. Having tasted 30+ vintages of Mouton, it is nice to make another mark in the belt, for I haven´t tasted the 2001 before. The nose is very fine and deep with notes of ripe black currants, graphite, fresh stables and that fine Mouton coffee scent. Aristocratic and very fine.
The taste is somewhat mature, pure and restrained in a very positive way, with notes of just ripening black currants, blueberries, pencil shavings and cold coffee. The finish is long, cool and refined. This is gooood! The best wine with the outer and inner filet of the Mouflon with asparagus, nettles, hazel nuts and duck liver.
93p   (tasted 2015/03)



1983 Château Mouton Rothschild
The first bottle was corked, but was swiftly replaced with a fresh one. The nose is beautiful mature with notes of dried black currants, dry graphite, well used stables, dark perfume and sugared coffee. Deep and fine. Perfectly mature.
The taste is mature and tight with a rustic elegance and notes of dried fruits, coffee powder, worn leather and damp earth. The finish is medium long and balanced. I have drunk this several times over the years and it always delivers, although it doesn't perform on the highest level that Mouton can achieve, for example with 1982 and 1986.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)

2002 Château d´Armailhac
This was generously served as an extra wine. The nose is cool and clean with notes of barely ripe red currants and red cherries, black tea, gravel and some wood notes. Good although it is a touch anemic.
The taste is tight and restrained elegant with notes of cool red fruit, cherry pips, gravel and wood. The finish is medium long with a fine acidity. Good with the food, which in this case was a spectacular dish in the shape of braised Mouflon neck with cabbage in a truffled bouillon, and then fresh truffles was generously shaved over the plate. The best dish I have had in a long time - absolutely stunning!
86p   (tasted 2015/03)

 


2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Valdicava
The generosity kept on flowing - another extra bottle was poured. This Brunello shows a deep, powerful nose with lovely notes of ripe black cherries, pipe tobacco, liquorice and expensive soap. Very, very deep.
The taste is big and bold with a touch of maturity and notes of sweet black cherries, tobacco, violets and hot earth. The finish is long, intense and structured. This is good!
92p   (tasted 2015/03)

2002 Château Suduiraut
Last but not least - a very fine Sauternes. The nose is from the textbook, with notes of saffron, hand cream, sweet apricots and peaches, lots of botrytis. Very deep, very focused and very fine.
The taste is intense and precise with notes of saffron cakes, lemoncello, tropical fruits, sweet almond paste and a hint of detergent. The length is counted in minutes. This is yummy!
93p   (tasted 2015/03)

Monday, 23 March 2015

Just Bought

I just love when this happens - I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve - every time, even though I know what´s in them...:-)


Some mature Aussie´s
A 50 year old Swiss Pinot Noir - should be good! :-)
I love the wines from Cullen!

Friday, 20 March 2015

Drinking Tonight - 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Beringer Vineyards

A day with snow - I thought that we were finished with that for the season - and visits to some local artists and gallery's. Coming back to our rented cottage I needed something to warm me through.

2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Beringer Vineyards
This youngster has a lovely, deep, sweet nose of ripe black currants and notes of dark fudge, graphite, pine forest and some distant forest smoke. A very fine sweetness to the fruit. This is good.
The taste is tight yet with a fine creaminess, and notes of of black currants, blueberries, dark chocolate, bakelite and a touch of new oak. Long and fine. This is very good already but I guess it will be even better with 5+ years in the cellar.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)


Thursday, 19 March 2015

Drinking Tonight - 1998 Rosso Di Montalcino, Lisinii

We have taken a few days of, and I have of course brought some wines with me. First up, with Italian delicatessen, is a bottle of

1998 Rosso di Montalcino, Lisini
Even though it is 17 years old, this Rosso needs some time to open up. When it does, it shows a nice, seedy nose with notes of dried cherries, damp earth, dry almond paste, herbs and a touch of bonfire. Medium deep, mature and fine. 
The taste is mature and nice with a medium bodied structure and it displays notes of dry cherries, toasted almonds, old leather and some chocolate flavours. The finish is long with a fine dry twist. Still holding up well. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2015/03)


Wednesday, 18 March 2015

A Follow Up Chapter To The Brunello Project

It has been over a year since I concluded my Brunello project. But M has not let go, he has insisted that my project wasn´t over until he had poured some bottles that he had assembled.
A couple of days ago it was time to get to taste them. Or at least we thought so.

But after five hours at M:s place we hadn´t seen a bottle of Brunello. Flight upon flight of white wines came and went. Great wines, don´t get me wrong.

No Brunello´s? The evening had ventured into night and then, then, then!
Two flights of red wines. Could it be? The haunting Brunello´s?

Lets check it out (the whites will be posted in a separate post).
All tasted double blind.

1997 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli, Altesino
This was tasted during my project. Tonight it showed a big, open, somewhat meaty nose with notes of black cherries, black currants (even a bit Bordeaux feeling), sweet violets and damp earth. Very good. A fine maturity.
The taste is mature and warm with notes of ripe black cherries, liquorice, graphite, violets and cold coffee. Long and fine with some sandy tannins still. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)



2000 Flaccianello, Fontodi
M have lately - with 2008 Brunate, Marengo & 2007 Marenca, Luigi Pira - had some fun with us. If fun is the right word...
The concept is easy enough, open a magnum, split into two decanters and present them in a line up with other wines, and lets see if they notice that "two" wines are identical. 
I haven't before and not on this night either. Out of the first decanter - the top part of the magnum - this wine displays a deep, compact and lovely nose with notes of ripe black cherries, dark chocolate, rosenary, pipe tobacco and a hint of mint. A fine sweetness to the fruit. Hints of maturity.
The taste is somewhat mature with a taut structure and notes of black cherry compott, violets, chocolate covered cherries and warm herbs. The finish is long and very balanced. Starting to mature but out of this format, there is no hurry. 
93p   (tasted 2015/03)


2004 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiona
The 2006 was a masterpiece, sadly, the 2004 is not. At least if this bottle is representative.
The nose is big, a little bit over the top, with notes of cherry youghurt, balsamic vinegar, hot gravel and dry leather. A bit unfocused.
The taste is big and steady with notes of cooked cherries, violet pastilles, dusty earth and dry tobacco. The finish is long, warm but a bit foursquared. Could this bottle seen some heat?
82p   (tasted 2015/03)



2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione
On the other hand, this bottle showed great on this evening. A tight, intense deep and harmonious nose with notes of just ripe red and black cherries, violets, sweet flowers, sugared coffee and a elegant pine forest scent. Lovely.
The taste is just as intense as the nose, with velvet cherry fruit alongside notes of liquorice, Tuscan gravel and violets. A lot of underlying, sandy tannins. This is a handsome wine, that will drink great now and the upcoming 10+ years.
Earlier Il Poggione bottles tasted - 1994 & 2006, 1990, 2004 and 2001 Riserva
95p   (tasted 2015/03)

2007 Brunello di Montalcino, Colleoni
A new acquaintance for me, and a very good one at that. The nose is deep, young and focused with notes of sour/sweet cherries, expensive leather, coffee powder and a lovely perfumed note. A cool character. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, intense and pure with notes of chocolate covered cherries, rosemary, Tuscan gravel and cold coffee. A crisp, clean character. I would like to taste more from this producer.
92p   (tasted 2015/03)


2000 Flaccianello, Fontodi
This is the other half of the above mentioned magnum. When I look at my notes I see a lot of similarities. But identical? No. This is the bottom part of the magnum, and as with the 2008 Brunate, Marengo, I liked this a tad better. The fruit seemed more pure and sweeter. All in all, a great wine.
94p   (tasted 2015/03)

2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio di Sotto
This stunner has a deep, warm and creamy nose with notes of red cherries, red currants, violets, black tea and a some, from a distance, Cohiba scents. Very refined, even aristocratic.
The first word I jotted down after tasting this, was - damn! A beautiful mix of young power and structure and the most perfect ripe cherries, with additional notes of Tuscan gravel, rosemary and black tea. A long, lingering finish with a fine cool tannin feel. Still very young, this gorgeous creature will be a candidate for perfection in 6-10 years.
96p   (tasted 2015/03)



2006 Brunello di Montalcino, Ucceelliera
The last wine has a deep, fine nose with notes of ripe cherries, damp earth, cigarette ashes and liquorice. Taut and elegant. A fine depth. Still young.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of cherries infused with rosemary, balsamic vinegar and cigarette smoke. The finish is long, seamsless and with a restrained creamy feeling. Very, very fine.

Tuesday, 17 March 2015

Barone Francesco Ricasoli In The House



Francesco Ricasoli is in Stockholm again.
Last years tasting was really interesting, focused on the variations in soils within the Ricasoli's property. This visit focused on the new vintage, 2011, plus a new wine.

NV Brut Nature Silver, André Clouet
I'm usually very found of the wines from Clouet, but this one had a sturdy and a bit foursquare nose with notes of lemon peel, dry fudge, flint and a metallic touch.
The taste is cool and dry with notes of smoke, lemon peel and gravel. A decent finish but the midpalate is a touch anemic.
82p   (tasted 2015/03)


2013 Torricella
This blend of Chardonnay (80%) and Sauvignon Blanc (20%) is always a nice drink and this vintage is no exception. The nose is cool and fresh with notes of peaches, cold butter, melon and some flowery aromas. Very good.
The taste is young and perky with notes of melon, ripe pears and white flowers. A fine acidity is noticeable in the medium long finish. Very fine.
88p   (tasted 2015/03)

2011 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
In this somewhat tougher vintage, the Chianti Classico comes of as a very nice wine. The nose is young and laid back with notes of cherry pips, violets, hard cherry candy and whiffs of that fine Tuscan gravel road. A bit rustic, in a good way.
The taste is cool and seedy with notes of just ripening cherries, wet asphalt, violets and dry rosemary. A medium long finish with a fine balance. Very good. Drink early.
87p   (tasted 2015/03)

2011 Colledilà  Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
The second vintage of this wine is a really good one. The nose is broader and deeper than the Chianti Classico above and the cherry fruit is denser and darker with elements of chocolate, liquorice and damp earth. Very, very good.
The taste is young and structured with notes of sweet/sour cherries, chocolate covered cherries, violet pastilles and warm gravel. Long and fine. This should evolve into something really nice if you give it 4-6 years.
90p   (tasted 2015/03)



2011 Casalferro
This 100% Merlot sports a young, warm nose with notes of ripe plums, black cherries, tobacco and warm gravel. A fine depth. Very, very good.
The taste is young and taut with notes of cherries and plums alongside some new leather, rosemary and scorched earth. A long, fine finish. This is really good.
90p   (tasted 2015/03)

2011 Historia Familiae
Only produced in magnums and in a limited edition it celebrates the 20th year since Francesco took over as winemaker. Made out of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Petit Verdot, it has a deep, spicy, complex nose with notes of sweet/sour cherries, hard cherry candy, warm herbs, cold coffee and expensive leather. A fine depth. Very promising.
The taste is firm yet balanced with notes of ripe cherries, chocolate covered cherries, rosemary, violets and new leather. The finish is long and structured. This will be really fine in 5+ years time.
92p   (tasted 2015/03)


1997 Chianti Classico
Yet again I come to the conclusion that the best wine is that with some age - go figure! The nose is just lovely with beautiful scents of dried red fruits, old leather, autumn leaves, vanilla pods and violets. Very fine. A hint of dog fur (in a positive way) after a while.
The taste is pure and velvety with notes of red cherries, autumn leaves, milk chocolate, dried herbs and leather. A long, soft finish with just the right amount of stuffing left. Like 2,5 years ago, on top of its game.
93p   (tasted 2015/03)


2006 Vin Santo
A big, intense, sweet nose with notes of tangerines, candied orange peel, saffron and a hint of hand cream. Very, very good. Some vanilla notes emerges with air.
The taste is big and intense with notes of dried apricots, tangerines, saffron cake and a touch of detergent. A long, sweet finish with a fine acidity. Drinking really well today.
90p   (tasted 2015/03)


Barone Francesco Ricasoli - the man behind the wine...

Saturday, 14 March 2015

1990 Echezeaux Tasting Dinner

I had amassed a nice group of Echezeaux bottles from the 1990 vintage. Time to taste them with some other bottles and some nice food!

We started with an old bubbly. Since it wasn´t really up to par, I opened a youngster too.
1966 Cuvée N. F. Billecart, Billecart Salmon
A big, round and mature nose with notes of vanilla custard, old wrinkled apples, dried up nuts and almond paste. A little lose on the edges.
The taste is mature and creamy with notes of dried yellow fruits, stale nuts and vanilla that has passed its best before date. A hint of bubbles on the tongue. Clearly drinkable but I had higher hopes. Ah, well.
85p   (tasted 2015/03)



2008 Louis Roederer
I opened this as a replacement since I recently bought some bottles and was curious. What a wine! The nose soars up from the glass with gorgeous notes of lime peel, pear candy, elderberries and lots of sweet minerals. Very classy. Young of course, this is going places.
The taste is racy, refined and divine with notes of pear juice, red apples, lime, liquorice and wet stones. The acidity is stunning. A long, long, balanced and intense finish. Great wine! Lets see if I can get hold of some more.
95p   (tasted 2015/03)

For the first course I grilled a couple of scallops with salsify and a white wine sauce, to along these two white Burgundies.
1996 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combottes, Etienne Sauzet
This is what mature Burgundy is all about. A stunning nose with notes of lemon cello, sweet/sour lemons, almond paste and cap gun smoke. A fine, salty scent. Very deep. Lovely.
The taste is intense and creamy with notes of sweet/sour lemons, lemon cream, dried flowers and crushed rocks. A long, velvety finish with a fine acidity. A lovely texture. Very classy. Perfectly mature.
94p   (tasted 2015/03)




1996 Bienvenues Batard.Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet
We were not as lucky with the Ramonet bottle. There is some premox notes here, burnt butter, old apples and toffee. Not bad but not what Ramonet can be.
The taste is big and brawny with notes of ripe yellow apples, yellow beets, dark fudge and a hot feeling. Passable, but not good.
82p   (tasted 2015/03)


With the first flight we had a Pigeon- and Foie Gras Terrine (bought, not made) with a salad.
1990 Echezeaux, Raoul Clerget
This new acquaintance for me has produced a really fine bottle of Burgundy. The nose is deep, mature and slightly meaty with notes of dark raspberries, forest floor, animal fur and cooked root vegetables. Very, very good. Old fashioned.
The taste is round and mature with lots of warm red cherries and raspberries with additional notes of old leather, moist undergrowth, veal stock and rosehips. A long finish with a good acidity. This is in a perfect drinking stage.
92p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Jaboulet-Vercherre
I have tasted some bottles from this producers over the years and they have never really excelled. This one faired really well though. The nose is warm and a bit murky with notes of ripe raspberries, mature red apples, liquorice and pine scents. A fine warmth. Very good.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of red currants, dried raspberries, beet roots and rosehips. A long, balanced finish with some Christmas spices. Very, very good.
89p   (tasted 2015/03)


1990 Echezeaux, Christian Michel
Another new producer for me and another stunner! The nose is mature, round and full of lovely forest aromas alongside notes of mashed raspberries, hard raspberry candy, spices and parsnips. Deep and fine, with a fine sweetness to the fruit. Really fine.
The taste is big and balanced with a lovely intensity and sports notes of raspberry coulis, cigar smoke, forest floor and Christmas spices. A long, concentrated finish. This could be cellared for another 5+ years. Great!
93p   (tasted 2015/03)


For the second flight I had prepared a sweetbread and morel risotto.
1990 Echezeaux, Domaine du Clos Frantin
The second flight starts with a nicely matured Burgundy, with fine notes of smoky raspberries, warn herbs, rosehips and a touch of bacon. Very, very good.
The taste is mature yet tight with a mix of cherries and raspberries, and extra notes of liquorice, warm sand, herbs and leather. Very long and structured. Just mature. Very fine.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Louis Latour
The stand out wine in this flight is this one. A stunning, deep, hedonistic nose oozes up from the glass with notes of mashed raspberries, cherry liquorice, forest floor, warm fudge and Christmas spices. Just wonderful. A lovely sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is velvety yet firm with notes of ripe raspberries, dark cherries, veal stock, spices, atouch of tobacco and roses. A long, lingering finish with a fine acidity. Perfectly mature. Great wine.
95p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Gérard Mugneret
The first Mugneret wine has a big, broading nose with notes of warm raspberries, smoke, leather and root vegetables. Deep. Very, very good. A touch of animal fur after a while. Structured.
The taste is lovingly firm and intense with notes of raspberries, lingonberries, leather, undergrowth and warm herbs. A long, taut finish with sandy tannins. Really good and could be kept for 3+ years, at least.
91p   (tasted 2015/03)


The last flight was combined with a real surf & turf dish - a hearty oxtail stew and halibut - yummy!
1990 Echezeaux, René Engel
We really saved the best for last. For the first hour after they were poured I was convinced that this was the best wine of the night. But the Grivot, slowly but surely, came through as the winner.
The Engel has a deep, concentrated, sweet nose with notes of raspberry coulis, old expensive leather, sugared coffee, root beet juice and some stale Coca-Cola. Very deep and complex. Gorgeous.
The taste is almost fully mature with stunningly sweet and intense fruit, a long, long finish and a mouth feel of velvet. Notes of chocolate covered raspberries, cigar smoke, root vegetables, rosehips and spices. The finish goes on for over a minute. A stunner!
96p   (tasted 2015/03)

1990 Echezeaux, Jean Grivot
As mentioned above, this beauty took its time to open up, but when it did, oooh boy! The nose is deep, refined and multi dimensional with notes of ripe raspberries, a hint of dries strawberries, Christmas spices, cherries, forest floor and a streak of Cohiba smoke. Deep, deep and deep.
The taste is tight and refined with sweet lingonberries, raspberries and cherries with additional notes of raspberry liquorice, cigar smoke, root vegetables, spices and rosehips. The finish is looong and there is still some finely tuned tannins, leaving their mark. A really great wine that will go on for 5-10 years still.
97p   (tasted 2015/03)


1990 Echezeaux V.V., Mongeard-Mugneret
Corked!¤#"%¤#!

For dessert we had some assorted chocolate and this oldie.
1853 Vinho de Madeira, Souta & Ca
I decanted this four days before and it needed that time to really open up. The nose is utterly gorgeous and enjoyable with notes of dried apricots, band aid, banana peel, tea leaves, cigarette ashes and a hint of detergent. Deep is just the beginning of it. Extraordinary.
The taste is intensity in a glass, with notes of dried apricots, orange peel, dry ginger, band aid and green tea. The acidity is turned up to eleven and the finish goes on and on and on. A privilege to drink.
97p   (tasted 2015/03)